It’s impossible, for this editor at least, to look at Lazoschmidl’s latest skivvy-focused collection and not think back to Calvin Klein and Bruce Weber’s ’90s underwear campaigns in which muscle-bound male models were made to look like Greek gods. The Lazoschmidl ideal is as mono, but tends to the other side of the spectrum, favoring … Read more
Last week, Nicolas Di Felice, the artistic director of Courrèges, posted to Instagram Stories a video he had taken of the Paris skyline at night, his camera slowly panning across the city. Di Felice had taken the video from a vantage point relatively new to him: the roof of the Jean Paul Gaultier atelier on … Read more
Given the global context, there’s a solid case to be made for taking a step back. This season, Egonlab founders Florentin Glémarec and Kevin Nompeix made a measured decision to forego a big runway fandango in favor of a small friends-and-family dinner at the Paris institution Anahi, followed by a showroom presentation. “With everything going … Read more
There’s a new designer in town. A few weeks ago, Winnie founder Idris Balogun and his wife, Sira, relocated from Vicenza, Italy, to Paris. The reason: as the newly-appointed head of menswear at Lacoste, Balogun is negotiating a new city, another foreign language and a host of responsibilities while also forging ahead, with his new … Read more
Last we heard of Matthew M. Williams, back in December, the American designer had just announced his departure from Givenchy following the thought-provoking (if less headline-making) news that he had secured an investment deal for his Alyx label with Adrian Cheng, the Hong Kong-based entrepreneur. This week, quietly and intimately hosting previews in his Paris … Read more
Two days ahead of the Lu’u Dan showroom visit, I was walking down rue Saint Martin when I spotted founder and designer, Hung La, seated at a table outside playing mahjong—his well-acknowledged pastime. Later that afternoon, I began seeing Lu’u Dan campaign posters in different parts of the city, featuring two portraits from some underworld. … Read more
There was a storm brewing above Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding’s studio in east London, where the designers were reflecting on a perhaps even gloomier climate for independent fashion brands like theirs. In the six months since Palmer Harding released its fall 2024 collection, the British e-commerce giant Matches fell into administration, causing substantial losses … Read more
Photo: AaronP/Bauer-Griffin/GC Images) (Getty Images) A Southwest Airlines flight dropped to just 525 feet when it was still about nine miles from the runway where it was supposed to land on June 19. The Boeing 737-800 was nearly done with its journey from Las Vegas to Oklahoma City’s Will Rogers World Airport when an automated … Read more
In London, the first warm days of summer are rolling in, and it seems the Jenny Packham woman is ready to party. Describing the client she was designing for this season as “international, independent, determined, free,” it was a notably youthful-feeling offering, with Packham’s signature glitz and sequins dialed up to the max. Top of … Read more
Fifteen Max Mara Atelier coats were presented in Venice at the modernist Olivetti store, a spare, elegant space overlooking St. Mark’s Square, designed in 1958 by Italian architect Carlo Scarpa. It was a fitting frame for the high-end offer, which showcased Max Mara’s industrial savoir faire augmented by artisanal handmade finishes. The design team looked … Read more
