runway_review

“We always compare what we do at the Elder Statesman factory to a chef’s kitchen,” Bailey Hunter, the label’s creative director, explained. “We always start with these ingredients—our yarns—and then we’re kind of in the kitchen, crafting…

This season, Spanish designer Carlota Barrera evoked Asturias, her homeland: “I’m from the north. It seemed interesting to me to go back to those seaside roots, and to develop the collection from a less romantic point of view, but with…

Like the rest of the world, Barbara Tfank has had Balenciaga on her mind. But not the controversy, Tfank has been thinking about Cristóbal Balenciaga, the man. “I did a lot of historical research before starting my collection, and there…

“There’s this ’50s thing happening,” wrote Todd Snyder in his fall collection notes. He’s correct, designers continue to mine a deep vein of post-war nostalgia and the result is a return to form, expressed through tailoring. That means…

Over a recent breakfast Rachel Comey was reminiscing about the Chelsea flea market. In the 1990s, before zoning laws made way for luxury high rises on Sixth Avenue, antique dealers and junk collectors turned the empty lots from 24th to 27th…

“Who is the woman?” When it comes to fashion, that’s an age-old question. Buyers, stylists, editors, and publicists all seek to distill the essence of a designer’s point of view to a singular person—an existing archetype, a made-up persona,…

Keisuke Yoshida is one of Tokyo’s brightest young fashion talents. This season he closed an overall strong Tokyo Fashion Week with a collection that felt like he’d leveled-up. The 32-year-old designer has spent the past few seasons…

Kiichiro Asakawa is a softly spoken polymath that takes an overhead, almost scientific view of fashion rather than an introspective one. This is partly informed by his retail background. In addition to his brand Stein, he also runs the…

“This collection of mine is me staring back at me. It’s my portrait,” said Takeshi Kitazawa. The DressedUndressed designer had found himself figuratively looking in the mirror a lot over the past few months, and thinking about how clothes…

The attached scarf on the black coat in slide 2 of this lookbook unwinds to a good 20 feet. Duckie Brown’s Steven Cox dreamed it up as a sort of obi, cinched tight around the waist, and it requires a partner to do it up properly.That’s the…