“It is not a nostalgic or particular prism of a woman,” said Louise Trotter, when asked how the heritage of Carven informs her approach. “It’s that sense of silhouette and sense of proportion with an ease of today.” Trotter has shown two runway collections since arriving at Carven. But by the quirk of pre-collection timing, … Read more
Monsieur Yves Saint Laurent was a designer who not only flou-ed with the best of them, he was the best of them. And in the ever fascinating way that Anthony Vaccarello continues to intuit the raison d’etre of the house—dress women, do it chicly, and sometimes bring a somewhat (and very YSL) eroticized edge to … Read more
Seasonal, but not too time-of-year specific; that’s how Jonathan Simkhai approached his easy to wear, mostly monotone pre-fall collection. Softly draped bubble hems were carried over from fall, now shorter and dressier. For day, there was a white top-stitched shirt-style dress as well as a lighter, citrusy number drawn in at the waist with darts. … Read more
Ten years in and Area’s Piotrek Panszczyk has his collection development down to an exact formula: a group of terrific novelty jeans, a groovy print, and crystal-embellished party-ready separates that are sexy but never basic, thanks to their interesting fabrication. And yet the results are always unexpected, due to a belief in creative experimentation that … Read more
Fashion brands today work according to their own clockwork, as the concept of “seasonal” has been reduced to an elusive notion. This pre-fall bridges elements from Jil Sander’s spring and fall collections, yet following the laws of retail, it hits shop floors now, coinciding with this review. If you’d compare this timeline, say, with Netflix, … Read more
Cult Gaia designer Jasmin Larian Hekmat took a walk outside to get her creative inspirations flowing this season. “My constant source of inspiration is nature,” she said. Here, that resulted in a cool palette of earthy tones—blues, creams, and greens—that were incorporated into her signature mix of easy, vacation-ready pieces. “With this collection, I really … Read more
Milan is Massimo Giorgetti’s adopted city; born in sunny, industrious Romagna, he decamped at a young age to the equally industrious but alas not so sunny Northern capital. His MSGM creature, who turns 15 this year, is rooted both in the optimism of his birthplace and in the energetic, hard-working nature of the Milanese. Pre-Fall … Read more
For Emilia Wickstead, designing a collection always starts with the woman; the muse. And for pre-fall, her roving eye turned to Bridget Riley, the British Op art pioneer known for her dazzling canvases lavished with intricate geometric patterns. The point of inspiration was woven through the collection first in a very literal sense—a standout dress … Read more
Like many New Yorkers, the Ahluwalias like to escape the city in the summer. Last year, Sachin, Babi, and their family took a trip to Tuscany. “We were lucky enough to be able to go somewhere beautiful and glorious, but let me tell you, it was a hot summer,” said Babi. Also like many New … Read more
This season at Kith there are no overarching themes or drawn-out inspirations; rather this is a collection of relaxed pieces that incorporate, as always, Ronnie Fieg’s passion for beautiful fabrics and his continuing interest in expanding the Kith brand to more accurately reflect his own lifestyle and tastes. A navy suit has a loose-fitting jacket … Read more
