“Nobody calls me ‘daddy,’” Philipp Plein reflected: “Except for Rocket.” Plein’s perfectly behaved toddler sat on his father’s lap during this call, munching on crudités and watching Peppa Pig—and Daddy Pig—on his papa’s phone. Meanwhile, Plein talked through a collection that went back to his mid-aughts roots. The tattoo patterns on menswear and womenswear referred … Read more
In the wake of the contemplative transparencies and flower terrarium dresses that made the Undercover spring ’24 show so wistful and wondrous, this pre-collection delivered a surprisingly solid array of everyday attire. Granted, garments designed by Jun Takahashi are never ordinary, as evidenced by the cool jeans with flounced edges and blazers cut with a … Read more
If you placed Teurn Studios’s pre-fall collection on a Venn diagram it would represent the meeting of bougie polish and boyish (vs. tomboy) charm. Anna Teurnell, who lives not far from a school, has recently been taken by how “young guys look in Sweden, with their fly hairdos, jackets, slouchy trousers. They are so natural and … Read more
For almost a year, The Elder Statesman’s Greg Chait and Bailey Hunter had been discussing the idea of starting a surf label. “Surfing can be more than just surfing,” Chait said on a Zoom from the Paris showroom where they’re holding market appointments. “You can surf waves of many different things; it’s such a good … Read more
“Shocking and unexpected things happened while I was designing this collection,” Chitose Abe reflected (through a translator) after her men’s fall and women’s pre-fall collections had taken to the runway in Paris. “I feel grateful to have a simple, happy life, and so I really wanted to give a united message of love to everyone.” … Read more
With awards season in full swing, it’s Jenny Packham’s time to shine. Quite literally. If you’ve spent the past few weeks scrolling through the red carpet galleries from the Golden Globes and Critic’s Choice Awards (among the many, many other events taking place in Hollywood right now) you’ll have seen plenty of her gowns doing … Read more
If you are in the middle of a pre-collection appointment and you suddenly find yourself talking about the Large Hadron Collider at CERN, then you can only be meeting with Coperni’s Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant. “As you know, we are very inspired by technology and innovation—it’s our passion,” Meyer said on a recent Zoom … Read more
David Koma’s fondness for birds and feathers has become ubiquitous in his designs. However, while still drawing inspiration from avian elements, his pre-fall collection deviated from his usual practice of dedicating his collection to a single muse. Instead, he chose to honor the high-society women of New York from the mid ’60s, whom Truman Capote … Read more
Johanna Ortiz is gearing up for a major milestone of a year; she is celebrating her 20th anniversary in business. Perhaps that’s why her pre-fall collection had all the markings of a quintessential Johanna Ortiz collection: like a boldly printed caftan with alluring cabochon embroidery around the neckline, or a sequin stripe mini dress with … Read more
“I think our universe has been very floaty, and somehow I feel like this collection is grounding it but still in an elevated way.” So said Cecilie Bahnsen on a call about her pre-fall 2024 collection. It’s been four seasons since the Danish designer started expanding her offering in a distinctive way that makes sense … Read more
