Speaking with Susan Fang is always a joy—she’s among China’s most promising talents, and her infectious positivity permeates her work. Her latest collection transports us to an ethereal underwater realm where love and light conquer all. “There’s a lot of negativity going on in the world right now, and it makes me sad to think about people losing their homes,” she shared during a preview. “In my research, I found that bubble snails float around in the sea, taking their home everywhere they go—this became the starting point for the collection.”
Yeomanry House in Bloomsbury provided the minimalist canvas for Fang’s latest confectionary designs. Laser-cut resin structures, resembling windmills, hung from the ceiling, while a colossal rope bubble-making machine added a dose of whimsy, blowing bubbles down the runway. Models descended the venue’s rear steps, showcasing a burst of sugary tones and delicate textures; including the season’s new “air-whirl” technique, a method where organza is swirled to form architectural constructs reminiscent of crinolines, that remain remarkably lightweight. Pastel-colored down jackets were adorned with stars and clover hearts, and voluminous puffer maxi skirts added dimension to the collection. Elsewhere, intricate beading embellished netted dresses, while strips of hand-stitched tulle formed airy sheer midi dresses and maxi skirts.
The collection also featured various collaborations: one with Victoria’s Secret, which will be available exclusively in China, included lace lingerie sets and cotton pajama separate; and another with Nike, where the designer adorned 13 pairs of sneakers—including the Vomero 5, V2K, P-6000, and Air Max Scorpion FK styles—with 3D floral decorations. There were also charming hand-crocheted boots crafted from off-cut materials from previous seasons in a dreamy smörgåsbord of Susan Fang hues.
In anticipation of her upcoming nuptials, the designer imbued the collection with a bridal vibe, evident in pieces such as white Broderie Anglaise shirt dresses, and the “air-whirl” finale mini-dress with lilac, baby blue, and black organza, paired with a veil. Fang’s vision, brimming with optimism, is both charming and aspirational; perhaps our world would benefit from more of her outlook.
