The New York fashion shows can sometimes seem like a trend-a-thon, with some young and emerging designers rushing to imitate the previous season’s runway hits from Paris and Milan, or fixating on shapes that are better off left in the past. Not so for industry veteran Maria Cornejo. She’s been in business for over 25 years, but from the start she’s known herself and been true.
For spring 2025, Cornejo presented a tight collection showcasing her signature geometric cuts and flair for offbeat prints. A skirt with a soft diamond silhouette that’s long been a best-seller has been transformed into a dress, and she brought back a graphic navy and black motif from the archives (eagle eyed observers will remember then-first lady Michelle Obama in the pattern circa 2009) for a matching tunic and pant set.
There’s an appealing airiness to the collection. Cornejo’s clothes make a strong statement, but they wear lightly. No straining against corsets here, corsets being one of the peculiar (some might say problematic) affectations from the past of the up-and-comer set. Her long experience wearing her own clothes has taught her much about the appeal of, say, an elastic waist pant or a dramatic, voluminous two-piece evening look that can be split apart for versatility.
As ever, she’s focused on responsibly sourced fabrics. She pointed out the natural, cream color of her denim separates, explaining she won’t use white denim because it requires bleach to produce. That doesn’t mean her materials are dull or uninteresting. The most striking this season is “lotus coupé,” a teal and black floral jacquard with a subtle wow factor.
