Under the creative direction of Peter Hawkings, Tom Ford 2.0 has so far focused its runway resources on the womenswear audience via two starry shows that incorporated menswear, yet within which it seemed slightly subsidiary. Within the Ford universe, however, menswear generates a heftier commercial gravity (around 70% of their ready-to-wear sales last year), so it made sense to give the brand’s masculine expression this first stand-alone presentation.
The photos conjured images of Mick Jagger and Alain Delon heading for a Gunter Sachs-hosted soiree in some Cannes fleshpot following a grueling afternoon chain-smoking at Club 55. There was a touch of glam rock derived from before glam rock was invented: the fringed gem and sequin skinny scarfs, the loose collar polo necks plus pastel, and the gold and gemstone tones in the fabrics that generated a sense of opulence. Nearly every look, however, was accented with or dominated by black: This was a collection for night crawlers with a penchant for bottle service.
A drapey pearl-toned tailored jacket was shot through with pale golden pinstripes with a Lurex gleam. A powdery pink suit in silk mikado was the backdrop for an almost calligraphic outline of black-frame shades, black tie, gold-grommet black belt, and cracked black leather patent loafers with a glint of golden hardware. A fastidiously fitted leather ivory bomber was styled with cuffed sleeves pulled up mid-forearm to allow the silken folds of a matching tone shirt to push under and through. That gem-etched fringed tie substitute swayed with movement above.
There was a jacket in gold-tone leopard jacquard and a cheetah pattern shirt in opaque black and gold fil coupe matched with pants in French gold Lurex: big looks for alpha cats. One of those loose polos came in a trippy bouquet of multicolor ditsy daisy print. A cavalry striped tuxedo in creamy pale, apricot-tinged silk, and gem-toned pants in an almost weathered texture of velvet—a bit like antique upholstery—provided further flashes of stimulation. For those equipped with the hips, the pout, and the budget, Tom Ford menswear is surely the ultimate source of apparel for lotus-eating lotharios of every generation.
