After some soul searching in transition limbo, Blumarine has appointed a new creative director. Georgian-born designer David Koma will showcase his first collection for pre-fall; spring was crafted by the in-house team. Inspired by the fluidity of water and by Nick Knight’s dreamlike blurred images of rose blooms, the collection read as a more streamlined … Read more
Since graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2022, Charlie Constantinou has built a cultish reputation as a purveyor of gleefully expressive gorpcore.“My work is very much based around adaptability and how you can transition between different environments,” he said after today’s show, “but when you look at a lot of technical wear and outwear brands, … Read more
After some soul searching in transition limbo, Blumarine has appointed a new creative director. Georgian-born designer David Koma will showcase his first collection for pre-fall; spring was crafted by the in-house team. Inspired by the fluidity of water and by Nick Knight’s dreamlike blurred images of rose blooms, the collection read as a more streamlined … Read more
Tanya Taylor’s spring collection was based around her idea of a perfect day. For the designer and artist that would involve painting and cruising between her studio and an art supplies store on a skateboard. “When you’re in an art store, you feel like all your tools are around; you could create anything. And there’s … Read more
Every now and then, it feels as if “the industry”—that invisible hand we often blame things on when they don’t work, and seldom mention when they do—comes together to stand behind a new designer. There are profiles written and meetings taken, emails exchanged and front row chatter: “Have you heard of…?” “You have to go … Read more
Those who’ve spent much time on the British Isles this summer will know that it has been—perhaps unsurprisingly—a total washout. Among them is Feben, who took the constant rain as a point of departure for her namesake label’s latest collection, titled Reign. “It was a play on words,” the designer explained backstage post-show, acknowledging the … Read more
For spring, Rosetta Getty was thinking pragmatically about the things she loves to wear and the way she loves to wear them, and as such, her collection was injected with a real sense of ease. She brought back a favorite caftan from last summer, in a beautiful striped brown fabric and with matching pants so … Read more
The invitation for Natasha Zinko’s spring presentation arrived in the form of a chest radiograph revealing two silicone breast implants, along with a postoperative letter from the designer’s fictional medical practice. “The Plastic Clinic will not be liable for any discomfort caused,” it threatened. “In the case that you choose to pursue any kind of … Read more
Lela Rose has the following goal in life: “To give people clothing that they can see wearing in a lot of different ways—but they’re fully dressed,” she said. “I’m dedicated to always being dressed no matter where you are, no matter what you’re doing.” This season, she was dressing people for a hypothetical outdoor dinner … Read more
Her decision to present what she called “a styled show rather than a fashion show” was both an attempt to move that needle and an exercise in distancing herself from a sense of obligation to create producible garments. Working alongside Paris-based stylist Taylor Thoroski, looks leaned into Mark’s familiar style vernacular, drawing upon her own … Read more
