It’s a matter of equal opportunities. For nigh-on 80 years Brioni’s peerless Roman fatto a mano tailoring was only formally available to men. Then, last year, creative director Norbert Stumpfl cautiously began to sprinkle a few refigured feminine pieces into his mix, before showing Brioni’s first ever standalone women’s collection last season. We started today’s … Read more
There was a feeling of everything coming together for Maja Dixdotter this season. The designer had an art-adjacent eccentric in mind when ideating the collection; in planning the visuals, she was interested in finding a way to do “more of a portrait instead of just a shoot.” Reenter Conie Vallese, the Milan-based Argentinian artist who … Read more
Petar Petrov’s clothes are the kind that whisper rather than shout: Meticulously crafted from the world’s finest fabrics, and always offering just the right amount of directional flair, his collections are designed entirely on his own terms at his studio base outside the four fashion capitals in Vienna. So it was a delight to see … Read more
The spontaneous hand-drawn beauty of Steve O Smith’s work has to be seen to be believed. Over London Fashion Week, passers-by at Dover Street Market stopped dead to marvel at the inside-and out perfectionism of a few pieces of his spring collection which were hanging on a rail. It was like looking at 3-D free-hand … Read more
Boscobel, a historic estate overlooking the Hudson, was the setting for Sea’s spring 2025 lookbook. One reason for choosing it, said designer Monica Paolini: “It’s close to where Sean [Monahan] and I grew up.” The team showed Upstate some sartorial love by embroidering horses and lambs on a soft gray cardigan styled with a long … Read more
This season, Massimo Giorgetti opted for a presentation at MSGM’s headquarters, foregoing the traditional runway. Times of market volatility, global political turmoil, and economic uncertainty call for a more focused approach. Yet constraints can be blessing in disguise, often sparking creativity. With his trademark optimism, Giorgetti was embracing the challenges head-on. For the designer, art … Read more
Talia Byre was feeling confident this season—and so too was her woman. When the designer speaks of this person, someone she refers to a great deal, she isn’t imaginary. She exists, and she needs clothes to wear. And Byre knows what this woman wants to wear before she even knows what she wants to wear. … Read more
It has been two years since Jenny Cheng and Esther Gauntlett showed a collection during New York Fashion Week; but they had good reason for their comeback this year—it was their brand’s tenth anniversary. “We wanted to celebrate our 10 years as a New York brand but also to celebrate each other,” Cheng said a … Read more
Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding were fresh from a holiday at their spring 2025 preview. Their sense of R&R was palpable: it came in part from their hot summer break, and also from the fact that their business is doing well, despite the tumultuous retail landscape a lot of fashion brands are navigating right now. … Read more
Three seasons at London incubator Fashion East put Johanna Parv on the map, and spring marked her first solo turn, supported by NewGen. The Estonia-born designer makes clothes with a defined purpose—her customer wears them for work, play, and commutes in between—which models demonstrated as they unfurled jackets and stashed them into clever pockets on … Read more
