Filippo Grazioli went crafty, artsy and (why not?) a bit crazy for spring. He fully unleashed his inner eccentric on the runway, fearlessly and almost obsessively exploring Missoni’s zig-zag pattern with an avant-garde verve that felt instinctive and urgent. Backstage before the show, he explained that he wanted to re-energize Missoni’s bold artistic spirit and … Read more
The spring 1997 Versus show was Donatella Versace’s starting point for spring 2025. It was fashion’s pre-internet pre-history when elevated runways were still commonplace, as were the photographers who lined up against them. Can you imagine the clamoring today, if front-row content makers couldn’t get their iPhone shots? Versus was Donatella’s baby, a diffusion collection … Read more
Loro Piana shows its men’s and women’s collections intermingled on mannequins. Walking through the crowd of strikingly styled and hat-heavy—especially in womenswear—static ensembles today we heard how these collections majored on linen, and saw some interesting fabrications. It turns out if you mix linen with cashmere in an undyed cable knit cardigan, its hand-feel retains … Read more
Ironically, for a designer who resides in London (a city known for its gloomy and gray weather), Eudon Choi has a deep love for sunshine. Choi took a trip to Paris when designing his spring 2025 collection; he stopped by the artist Cy Twombly’s photographic exhibition and found that the two had a few things … Read more
When Fiordaliso’s 1986 hit “Non Voglio Mica La Luna” kicked in as the models walked their finale lap at Gucci today, the crowd started bopping in their seats and singing along. Sabato De Sarno’s first year at this brand hasn’t always been easy, but he set out to put a sunny, happy spin on things … Read more
Mowalola Ogunlesi has for the past two seasons disrupted the Fashion Week schedule with last-minute catwalks staged at industrial venues in far-out postcodes. The news that the designer would this time be inserting herself into an off-schedule closing slot was confirmed with less than 24 hours notice. Bold: the London after-parties would have to wait—and … Read more
The Grand Tour was an early ancestor of today’s mass tourism: the 18th century-onwards trend for the monied classes in Europe’s chilly north to venture south to Italy and Greece in order to broaden their cultural horizons and get away from their parents. This season Brunello Cucinelli and his team flipped that template to make … Read more
“I think fashion shows are overrated,” said Margherita Maccapani Missoni: “I’ve been going to them since I was two-weeks-old, so they are not my goal with Maccapani. Instead to present this collection I want people to enjoy a moment, to feel the storytelling and vibe.” She said this from a bamboo chair in the garden … Read more
On a trip to Japan ten years ago, Pauline Dujancourt was transfixed by seeing people tying votive wishes and prayers outside temples in the ema tradition. “I didn’t want to be disrespectful, but I wrote my own in my notebook and saved it,” she said. It read: “I wish to be a fashion designer.” She’s … Read more
Nili Lotan spent part of her summer in Marseille. “All I wanted to wear were dresses,” the designer, known for cutting a mean pair of pants, proclaimed earlier this week at a showroom appointment. And so this season Lotan made dresses, lots of them: Simple white slips in barely-there floral crochet yarns, column maxis in … Read more
