Congratulations are in order: Meryll Rogge married her partner this past May in the same small fishing village, Cadaqués, where Salvador Dalí once lived (his house has been preserved as a museum), and where the designer’s family has a home. This joyous occasion inspired a very personal collection. “Usually you are like, ‘Okay, what are … Read more
The Courrèges invitation was a metal mobius strip, and its infinite loop nature provided a clue about Nicolas Di Felice’s designs for spring. Where many of the skin-baring looks appeared to be two pieces—a tank dress worn with a bandeau bra, say—they were in fact one. He achieved this particular item by designing the halter-style … Read more
For several seasons now, Alexis Mabille has kept his most lavish creative displays for couture week, preferring instead to show an evening capsule collection during the Paris ready-to-wear shows. It’s his way of reminding his younger base that he’s got them covered with his signature silhouettes and shapes, plus a seasonal twist on color and … Read more
Hiding in plain sight. To enter Umit Benan’s laid-back mellow showroom, you had to go through an imposing steel door. Behind it, a getaway from Milan’s chaotic environment—warm, cozy furniture and a little nested courtyard full of greenery that gave way to a discovery of finely tailored garments that complemented the setting perfectly. “We are … Read more
“It felt really right to do something fundamentally about love and strength,” said Phoebe English. “And the sort of sanctuary we can find when things are very dark and externally frightening.” In her last collection, the heart motif cropped up in the form of an almost-Victorian chocolate-boxy padded tie-on breastplate. This time, it multiplied all … Read more
Han Chong is always plotting something. In the short space of just three months, the designer has—deep breath—released a 35-look Resort collection; staged the most extravagant of his annual summer parties at the Roof Gardens in Kensington; opened a marble-and-steel flagship in the center of Bangkok; and welcomed Christopher Kane as Self-Portrait’s first designer-in-residence, (back … Read more
Stepping into Dušan’s showroom, nestled in an elegant building on a quiet Milan street, feels like entering a preternaturally serene space, filled with museum-worthy ancient and Egyptian art treasures (he’s an eager collector) surrounded by an extraordinary installation of bonsai trees. Dušan Paunovic exists in a world of his own—he’s resistant to novelties, serves a … Read more
An elegantly slashed-sleeve cashmere sweater (that allows you to wear it arms in or out) worn with a hem-sashed skirt. An organic cotton trench with an added scallop of (removable) ruffles. A valentine-red dress with a soft asymmetric fall. All these soft touches indicated that BITE Studios was in a romantic mood for spring. As … Read more
“Made in Italy” is a broad umbrella concept under which innumerable smaller bottegas (workshops) sit—from tailors to textile makers, and specialists who work with leather, raffia, and other materials. It would seem, then, that differences of scale on the production end are a given, so why are so few piccolo-sized brands on or adjacent to … Read more
“It might not be much, but a window that opens onto the street is all I need,” said Arthur Arbesser. He’s always been obsessed with windows, watching life unfold through the glass when the lights turn on at night. The place where he presented his spring 2025 collection felt like a small white box, with … Read more
