A go-to among minimalists since the brand was founded a decade ago, Gauchère this season stepped away from the runway, instead staging the spring collection in its airy Haussmannian showroom opposite the Louvre. It was a smart move, not least because the season’s inspiration was vibrations and electricity, or as designer Marie-Christine Statz put it, … Read more
For spring, JJ Martin elevated La DoubleJ’s presentation to a whole new level. She took over Milan’s Circolo Filologico, transforming it into what she described as a “high-vibration Fashion Week station and portal to higher consciousness,” offering editors, buyers, and the now globally expanded LDJ sisterhood a five-hour “energy bath” filled with sessions led by … Read more
Jenny Packham often draws on the glamour of the past to dress her glamorous woman in the present day. Yet her journeys across cultural and cinematic history typically locate themselves somewhere in the 20th century—and not in the annals of ancient Egypt. “I’ve been waiting for ages for the Grand Egyptian Museum to open in … Read more
It’s a good moment to be Daniel Roseberry. Fashion has decided to swap the bland sameness of quiet luxury and the banality of algorithms for a mood that’s more eccentric. And eccentric fashion is something Roseberry excels at, as he’s proven over and over again at his couture shows for Schiaparelli. Ready-to-wear is a newer … Read more
In sifting through the archives at Rochas, Alessandro Vigilante came across photos of founder Marcel Rochas enjoying downtime at the beach. In stark contrast to today, the house’s founder dressed like a dandy even in OOO mode. Vigilante has been at Rochas for a year now, and with this presentation—a beachside cabana complete with sand, … Read more
Theme-wise, Nehera’s spring collection flowed on from resort. Ladislav Zdút was focused on the Brutalist fountains that dot Bratislava’s cityscape. The concrete used to build them was represented in a custom shade of gray, used for a sheer organza pantsuit with its lining stripes revealed. The long tendrils of fountain water inspired long, narrow silhouettes: … Read more
It has been a hectic summer for Co’s Stephanie Danan. In between finalizing the spring 2025 collection, she’s also been in the throes of planning a move to a new apartment which will mark her as “officially officially” living in Paris. “I’m getting the keys on October 1st and it’ll be the second to last … Read more
Among many other things, Conner Ives is an excellent storyteller. As he talked through his latest collection, titled Camelot, the designer spun a rip-roaring yarn of a journey from the medieval lords and ladies of Arthurian legend through to the invocation of Camelot by Jackie O to describe the Kennedy administration, all the way up … Read more
This season, fashion has largely chosen to react to the current socio political and economic chaos with a kind of peaceful protest expressed through softness and prettiness. These attributes are, of course, often found in lingerie, by which Anna October is always inspired. “My constant thinking is about the female body and femininity and how … Read more
Roland Mouret knows his customer well. Leafing through the rails of clothing in the bright, high-ceilinged studio space he shares with Self-Portrait’s Han Chong, it was hard not to be struck by their tactile, near-seductive desirability—especially for the kind of sleek urban woman (with a handful of events to attend every week) that is his … Read more
