Though Ponte seems to have arrived on the scene fully formed, the pieces you see here are described as its third “series” and were created by one Harry Pontefract, an elusive Englishman who views this project as “ongoing body of work” that dates back to his days at Central Saint Martins when he was up … Read more
Now that was a show. There was naive youth and disaffected youth. There were villains, mermaids, princesses, lightning, fireworks, rats, and Kylie Jenner. For those who dared, the after party included the chance to ride Hyperspace Mountain (epic). When I regretfully exited Disneyland Paris at the stroke of midnight, techno still echoed through the Magic … Read more
“The body has to breathe,” said Rabih Kayrouz—and he meant it. The breathtaking opening look of his collection, a suit in a clear shade of red made using a crispy, paper-like cotton, featured a near-weightless jacket made of just three pattern pieces. “It’s completely free on the side and on the shoulder there is a … Read more
Abraham Ortuño Perez’s label may have had its on-calendar Paris Fashion Week debut this season, but he’s certainly not a new kid on the block. He launched his brand—Abra, short for Abraham—in 2020, following a string of freelance gigs at other labels. The designer already counts Rosalia and Charli XCX as fans, but he’s also … Read more
At the Elder Statesman, Greg Chait and Bailey Hunter are busy growing their creative universe. “This season, we explored going a lot more into wovens and cut-and-sew, and expanding our materials library,” Hunter said via Zoom from Los Angeles. Their spring 2025 look book opens with a proper khaki linen coat with an asymmetrical lapel … Read more
When Paula Canovas del Vas was casting around for a presentation concept, she stumbled across The New York Times’s viral “36 Questions That Lead to Love” article. Reading the questions struck a chord, so she asked the artists Meryl Yana and J.B. Braud to narrate them, and that became the soundtrack for a presentation held … Read more
Waiting for the Sacai show to start today, you got the distinct sense that it had graduated from an insider cult favorite to a global super brand, with a front row full of on-the-rise celebrities in Chitose Abe’s avant garde designs. The longtime Sacai admirer in me felt a unique blend of territoriality and pride. … Read more
When Vogue broke the news last week that Ludovic de Saint Sernin will be the eighth guest designer to create a season of Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture, he said that his own collection would deliver new ideas despite the decision to skip a runway show. In a whitewashed gallery in the Marais, he elaborated … Read more
Very refined bondage plus a vegan breakfast buffet made for a healthy start at this morning’s Undercover womenswear presentation. It was held at Dover Street Market Paris: we filed through the courtyard, past the chair avalanche installation by Tadashi Kawamata, and headed downstairs. Once there we were greeted with a group of recognizably quotidian garments … Read more
The soulful notes of a live flamenco performance filled the air at Johanna Ortiz’s presentation, setting the tone for an emotional show. “I wanted to reconnect with my roots and fully embrace my Hispanic heritage,” she said backstage. “This collection truly comes from my heart.” Ortiz infused her designs with energy and authenticity. The vibrancy … Read more
