Like a good playlist, Mfpen’s latest collection evokes emotions that exist almost outside of time. Though there are hesitant dabs of light blue and pale yellow, the clothes are mostly rendered in a palette of moody grays and blacks that hardly scream “spring.” Ditto for materials like pinstripe (these are tropical weight). Because Mfpen uses … Read more
Max Schiller’s current mood is reductionist and “locavore.” It’s present in the raw denim uniforms he created for Carsten Höller’s Brutalisten restaurant in Stockholm (which operates according to a manifesto that just one ingredient is used per dish), and in a more nuanced way in the spring Eytys collection. Tired of the pervasive influence of … Read more
There’s a cool clarity to Bryan Conway’s new collection for Tiger of Sweden that is absolutely refreshing. Whereas in the past it has felt like the designer was hesitating at the edge of the diving board, for spring 2025 he dove unhesitatingly into things while also bringing the work closer to home. Consider an irresistible … Read more
School is still in session for Ambush’s Yoon Ahn, who is continuing her exploration of “Ambush Academy” for the label’s resort collection. “Fall was Ivy League, a more preppy kind of vibe; but this season we’re taking it to the quirky art class kids,” she explained on a Zoom call from Japan. “There’s more cuteness, … Read more
Personnel changes at Filippa K mean that the spring collection started by Liisa Kessler was completed by the in-house team with input from the new creative lead, Anna Teurnell, who will also continue to run her tiny, mighty namesake label, Teurn Studios. Both brands tend toward the minimal, but by the looks of it, at … Read more
Our Legacy’s influence on menswear is such that editors, speaking in shorthand, describe some emerging brands as trying to be the next OL. Essentially they are talking about the legacy of Our Legacy—legacy2?—which includes an anti-fashion stance that embraces grunge, moto, and military influences and lends a sense of timelessness to the pieces. There’s also … Read more
The audience attending the Dsquared2 show at Milan’s Teatro Lirico was in for a surprise, served up by the Caten twins in top showman form. Once the plush red velvet curtains opened, red-lit glass cages descended from the ceiling, with (scantily clad) male dancers engaging in a rather hot performance—at least by fashion show standards. … Read more
Carolina Castiglioni launched Plan C men’s alongside women’s at this year’s Pitti Uomo. The artsy installation was conceived with longtime collaborator Duccio Maria Gambi, a designer and sculptor who has worked with Castiglioni on the set-up of the label’s stores in Tokyo. Japan is a big market for Plan C, as the country’s edgy aesthetic … Read more
Good news for fans of Apple TV+’s Palm Royale series, which is set amidst the high society of Palm Beach: designer Monique Lhuillier’s entire spring assortment is inspired by the South Florida destination, known for its elevated beach style. “I’ve only been there a few times, but every time I’m there, I really understand the … Read more
