Tod’s menswear presentation was held at Milan’s Pavilion of Contemporary Art, which served as a fitting frame for creative director Matteo Tamburini’s first menswear outing. It was a clear indication of the direction he wants the label to take—streamlined yet light-handed design, supple but precise construction, “a balance between tradition and modernity,” as he said. … Read more
“Quietly confident” was how Simon Holloway described his mood at a preview the day before his second collection for Dunhill, which unfolded in a Milanese garden on Sunday afternoon. Getting into the groove of his role, which he has now been in for just over a year, the 52-year-old designer has pulled back from the … Read more
David Koma is all about his crew. Through his womenswear he’s already built a solid following of enthusiastic subscribers to his graphic brand of powerful evening wear. Now, after 15 years, he’s trying to broaden his base by providing clothes that his male soulmates will want to get into, too. At a preview, he said: … Read more
It was as we galloped into the last ten or so looks of this entertainingly wild and equestrian Emporio Armani collection that the tone so specifically shifted. Some bicolor olive-on-lavender horse photo print shirts, then an ultra-light lavender suede suit and trucker prefaced two soft peak collar jackets that veered more towards purple and lilac … Read more
There are so many details in menswear that have all the practical use of an appendix: vestigial organs whose use has long outlived their original functional purpose, and which are only retained out of habit, nostalgia and ceremony. In his collection shown this afternoon, Neil Barrett applied his eye to some of these overlooked hand-me-downs … Read more
“Dressing for me has always been an adventure. It’s dressing for the day and the moment, for a match on the tennis courts, for a glamorous evening. My Purple Label collection for spring 2025 is inspired by that kind of living—celebrating a personal style that is effortless and timeless, a quiet sophistication that is confident … Read more
The Brioni presentation was held in the courtyard of a Milanese palazzo, transformed into a verdant labyrinth where groups of mannequins were displayed, apparently enjoying some leisure time—lounging on the lawn, sitting casually on trees, resting on benches with aplomb. Norbert Stumpfl was busy walking guests through, prompting them to touch and feel up close … Read more
“One must resist trends, respect at all costs what one believes is valid for oneself, and cultivate what I have always defined as the aristocratic taste of not pleasing.” Massimo Alba opened his seasonal manifesto with a quote by the painter Balthus, although it seemed so fitting that one could believe those were the designer’s … Read more
Our Legacy’s influence on menswear is such that editors, speaking in shorthand, describe some emerging brands as trying to be the next OL. Essentially they are talking about the legacy of Our Legacy—legacy 2?—which includes an anti-fashion stance that embraces grunge, moto, and military influences and lends a sense of timelessness to the pieces. There’s … Read more
The audience attending the Dsquared2 show at Milan’s Teatro Lirico was in for a surprise, served up by the Caten twins in top showman form. Once the plush red velvet curtains opened, red-lit glass cages descended from the ceiling, with (scantily clad) male dancers engaging in a rather hot performance—at least by fashion show standards. … Read more
