“This is the fourth unfolding of a new development for Canali, born with our fall/winter 2023 collection, which aims to provoke evolution on the basis of its founding values: quality of materials, constructions, and a trendy addition that is never the subject, but rather a form of completeness.” So said Stefano Canali, third-generation custodian of … Read more
After this season, Walter Van Beirendonck will be one of just two of the famed Antwerp Six still designing their eponymous labels, and the only one left standing on the runway circuit. Perhaps this is why, as guests scattered around roses and carnations and other foliage at the garden location of his show today, the … Read more
There’s a cool clarity to Bryan Conway’s new collection for Tiger of Sweden that is absolutely refreshing. Whereas in the past it has felt like the designer was hesitating at the edge of the diving board, for spring 2025 he dove unhesitatingly into things while also bringing the work closer to home. Consider an irresistible … Read more
Masu’s Shinpei Goto is a serial rulebreaker. This season the Japanese designer took Ivy League style—a faction of menswear fraught with sartorial regulations—and reinterpreted it in his own playful way. “The rules of Ivy Style are so strict and regimented, it feels like a taboo to touch them,” he said after the show. He’d called … Read more
Years in the making, the opening of Acnes Studios HQ in Paris was decidedly worth the wait. There will be more to reveal soon; let’s just say the building, located in the 10th arrondissement, gives off a carefully calibrated clash of opulent and raw, with the spaces as well-suited to a party or photo-shoot as … Read more
After a brief hiatus, Études is back with its original “Studio” tacked back onto its name. It also has a “renewed temporality,” as founders José Lamali, Jérémy Egry, and Aurélien Arbet put it (today’s outing was a two-fer, numbered 24 and 25, for this winter and next summer). While they were at it, a new … Read more
The setting for this Auralee show was none other than the hôtel des Maisons, the 18th century hôtel particulier that once served as Karl Lagerfeld’s primary residence a stone’s throw away from the Seine in Paris’s left bank. But it wasn’t the grandiosity of its interiors that attracted designer Ryota Iwai, it was its gardens. … Read more
Jun Zhao and Yushan Li of Pronounce spent the months in between their Milan Fashion Week debut in January and their sophomore presentation this past weekend adding “costume design” to their resumes. The pair lent their whimsical hands and minds to the Chinese production of “Lady M,” a British musical based on Shakespeare’s Macbeth. Their … Read more
Rewind back to Paris Fashion Week in March when The Row radically requested that guests refrain from using their phones during the show. And how this confirmed the brand’s hold over everyone, the request respected. Whether out of residual observance or simply owing to the tedium of tapping, I arrived at The Row’s Paris headquarters … Read more
Todd Snyder was thinking about America, specifically the Pacific Northwest, for the spring Woolrich Black Label collection; his second as global creative director. “Traditionally Woolrich is known as a fall brand,” he said, fresh off a flight back to New York from Milan where the runway show was held. “But really, it’s this great, iconic … Read more
