OAMC’s spring collection was designed in-house by a studio team, following the departure of Luke Meier, the label’s creative director. Meier will continue to collaborate on special projects. The inspiration loosely referenced the work of Arte Povera’s Jannis Kounellis and his raw aesthetic, jibing with the label’s workwear-inspired approach. Utilitarian and military elements were integrated … Read more
Unlike other designers focused on celebrity placements and magazine credits, Rag & Bone’s Robert Geller targets the real humans of New York City and beyond who will be wearing his clothes in their everyday lives. “We’re trying to create a wardrobe that fulfills all aspects and needs of our customers’ lives,” he said. “We built … Read more
“It can be dangerous to build a brand around cultural identity.” Kartik Kumra was in a reflective mood at a showroom appointment following his runway debut at Paris Fashion Week. Kumra was an economics major at the University of Pennsylvania when he launched Kartik Research, then named Karu Research, in 2020. The idea then was … Read more
The namesake in Ernest W. Baker, designer Reid Baker’s grandfather, recently passed away. He was 95. This collection by Baker and Inês Amorim was designed as an homage, and created with the intention of both untangling their grief while, perhaps inadvertently, charting a path forward. That is the unspoken effect of living life based on … Read more
“I think my parents are going to be quite shocked when they see this in Vogue!” Laughed Nicholas Daley, Zooming in to chat about his spring lineup. He was talking about the red, yellow, and green sweater in look 14 of this lookbook. It’s a replica of one his mother and a friend made by … Read more
The intersection of fashion and athletics is a topical one that Stefano Pilati addressed in a roundabout way in his latest Random Identities collection. “I’ve been excited to tap into the sport, therefore Pop,” said the designer in an email exchange. He’s been helped in this mission by New Era, a 100+ year old American … Read more
A part of Eli Russell Linnetz’s work for ERL that has gone unnoticed, or perhaps simply underreported, is its singular brand of male-on-male gaze. Linnetz is an adept storyteller, that much is clear, but what’s made his work compelling editorially and from a style—oftentimes more than design—point of view is his understanding of men. What … Read more
Under the creative direction of Peter Hawkings, Tom Ford 2.0 has so far focused its runway resources on the womenswear audience via two starry shows that incorporated menswear, yet within which it seemed slightly subsidiary. Within the Ford universe, however, menswear generates a heftier commercial gravity (around 70% of their ready-to-wear sales last year), so … Read more
It’s been seven years since Arnar Már Jónsson and Luke Stevens set off on their design adventure. Their ascent roughly coincided with fashion’s growing interest in technical gear, which their brand does very well. They want to expand on that now by, for example, using technical materials for tailored pieces. And while the designers’ approach is … Read more
It’s impossible, for this editor at least, to look at Lazoschmidl’s latest skivvy-focused collection and not think back to Calvin Klein and Bruce Weber’s ’90s underwear campaigns in which muscle-bound male models were made to look like Greek gods. The Lazoschmidl ideal is as mono, but tends to the other side of the spectrum, favoring … Read more
