Consider the circle. A symbol of the divine. The beginning and the end. Infinity. Duckie Brown’s Steven Cox was thinking about the circle. “[This season] I thought, let’s simplify this: circle, square, T-shirt, jeans,” he explained at the Duckie Brown studio. He put a bolt of Japanese denim on the floor, unrolled it and drew … Read more
Like Ernest Hemingway, Daiki Suzuki is a man of the world, and draws on his life experience to create his masterpieces. It was fitting, then, that the designer had taken the late American writer as his inspiration for this Engineered Garments collection, citing Hemingway as “one of our admired heroes.” Rooted in rugged military staples … Read more
Daniel Fletcher has been busy living his life. That is why it’s been a minute since you’ve seen his label on the runway, and why this season he opted for a lookbook rather than a show. It’s also why he’s been playing around with his presentation schedule—that and the fact that he’s now repositioned his … Read more
Loro Piana shows its mens and women’s collections intermingled on mannequins. Walking through the crowd of strikingly styled and hat-heavy—especially in womenswear—static ensembles today we heard how these collections majored on linen, and saw some interesting fabrications. It turns out if you mix linen with cashmere in an undyed cable knit cardigan, its hand-feel retains … Read more
It’s only natural that time should be a preoccupation of N.Hoolywood’s Daisuke Obana, as he was a vintage dealer before becoming a designer, and he often references the past, though not in a dusty way. During this monumental year, the designer, who recently turned 50, will soon mark his brand’s 25th anniversary. There will be … Read more
While shooting his new spring lookbook in California, Stan’s Tristan Detwiler and his team came across a washed-up whale on the beach; coincidentally, the ominous sighting mimicked the prints of dead fish that he used throughout his collection, from leather chore jackets to patchwork hitachi-knit sweaters. “The idea was to use deadstock over killing fish … Read more
The cathedral window is WDW’s signature motif; making it dimensional was this season’s challenge. This treatment was used in men’s tailoring. Those arches, placed on the hips of a gray leather dress, looked a bit like panniers. Imagining what WDW could look like on the red carpet was one of the challenges the designers set … Read more
Samuel Ross is back in the fashion game. His intention is to rewrite its rules. But first here’s the recap. It’s just over six months since Ross announced the outright sale of his first brand, A-Cold-Wall, to his longtime partner and incubator Tomorrow Ltd. As Virgil Abloh’s first-ever intern, this laser-focused young Brit had during … Read more
“Men who appreciate Etro are collectors at heart; they enjoy amassing [the label’s] prints over the years, almost obsessively, and aren’t concerned with fleeting trends,” said Marco De Vincenzo. And so this season he decided to forgo the catwalk and present an edited lineup of just 15 looks that highlights the brand’s archival patterns, all … Read more
Rhude’s recent seasons on the Paris Fashion Week menswear calendar, observed Rhuigi Villaseñor, “have been a great, great honor.” He added: “And now I think for our next frontier, what makes sense for us is to present in a way that allows us to showcase lifestyle.” Villaseñor said this in front of one of the … Read more
