Editor’s Note: We continue our tradition of expanding the Vogue Runway archive by digitizing collections originally shot on film, with a quartet of shows from Miu Miu, which had back-to-back hits in 2023 with the pantless look and neo-prep polo looks. First up is the brand’s runway debut. This spring 1995 collection was originally presented … Read more
Naked dressing reached new extremes in the summer of 2023. Here in New York, at least, it wasn’t unusual to see young women stepping out in boxer shorts and tanks, and in many cases bra tops were replaced by bras, plain and simple. Anticipating another hot one in 2024, Rachel Comey has put together a … Read more
A week ago Vera Wang posted a sneak peek of her new collection on Instagram. In the trio of pics, she models a black bonded silk satin crepe sash top and matching mini with a long tie sash at the hem. Though she made her name designing lavish wedding gowns—Vanessa Hudgens is her latest boldface … Read more
Daniel Del Core worked on reduction for pre-fall. Picking up the vibe of his spring show, there was a certain clarity in silhouettes and concision in his approach to construction here. But being keen on the adventurous, he experimented on unusual shapes, trying to regenerate predictable templates. “My imagination works as a laboratory,” he said. … Read more
Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding have been leveraging their creative talents in recent seasons, placing introspection at the heart of their process. Their pre-fall collection wholeheartedly embraces this approach, focusing primarily on daywear. “It’s an exploration into the signatures of our past, but it’s also about discovering new ways of adapting details from what we’ve … Read more
There are some broad and generally accepted parallels between decades in fashion history, such as the ’20s and ’60s and the ’40s and ’80s. It’s the latter pairing that is operative—without being retrograde—in Andrea Mary Marshall’s Salon 1884 pre-fall collection. “I wanted to make sure that [the wearer] looked empowered in the clothing and that … Read more
Alfred Hitchcock once called Grace Kelly “a snow-covered volcano.” The blonde actress-turned-princess famously embodied the hot Ice Queen cliché, classy on the outside, lustful on the inside—a duality that some consider erotic. Alessandra Rich finds it “an attractive paradox,” and for pre-fall she flirted with the duplicity between proper and naughty, a recurring theme in … Read more
Lightness isn’t a quality usually associated with Victoriana (all those tufted sofas and crinolines), but the two come together harmoniously in Sea’s easy-to-wear pre-fall collection, which is full of cross-season dressing tips. These included pairing an openwork dress with a linen blazer cinched with a black leather waist bag, and creating interesting texture play by … Read more
The opening look at the Versace spring show was a 1960s shift worn with ballet flats—a fact that could’ve made headline news, as six inch stilettos are the norm in the universe of Donatella Versace. That svelte, dynamic vibe was what she picked up on for pre-fall. Her own way of dressing IRL—a luxurious cashmere … Read more
Rather than fixating on a specific muse, as he has done in recent seasons, Huishan Zhang drew inspiration from ’90s coming-of-age films for his pre-fall collection. He explained during a preview, “I was looking at movies like Cruel Intentions and 10 Things I Hate About You, noticing that each character’s wardrobe reflected their personal growth.” … Read more
