Alessandro Dell’Acqua has the art of harmonizing polarities down to a T. His pre-fall collection read as an exercise in idiosyncratic styling, playing on apparently irreconcilable elements to gently break the rules of symmetry. “I don’t like going for predictable standards,” he said at a showroom appointment. Without courting subversion, Dell’Acqua has a way of … Read more
Menswear has taken a gentle route to move forward, as the codes of masculine representation overlap with those ascribed to the feminine identity. Gentle was precisely how Alessandro Dell’Acqua defined the attitude of his men’s fall collection, where contrasts coexisted, played out with “quiet conviction.” Blurring binary references is increasingly becoming unavoidable practice for fashion … Read more
Editor’s Note: We’re kickstarting the fall 2024 menswear season by adding two Miu Miu ready-to-wear collections—spring and fall 1999—to the Vogue Runway archive. These were the first two shows featuring Miu Miu menswear, a line that was active for a decade (1998-2008), and around which a nostalgic cult has developed. It’s impossible to relive the … Read more
Editor’s Note: We’re kickstarting the fall 2024 menswear season by adding two Miu Miu ready-to-wear collections—spring and fall 1999—to the Vogue Runway archive. These were the first two shows featuring Miu Miu menswear, a line that was active for a decade (1998-2008), and around which a nostalgic cult has developed. It’s impossible to relive the … Read more
Sportmax’s design studio went for a “more with less” approach for pre-fall, drawing upon references to the Mod culture of the 1960s, the Belle de Jour bourgeois look, and the sleek modernism of the ubiquitous ’90s. Silhouettes were kept clean and fitted, aligned with the current trend of less oversized proportions; sportswear influences were also … Read more
Luchino Magliano’s inaugural show was held at Pitti Uomo five years ago. Models walked around a heap of red roses, a sort of totem signaling the potent romanticism that still imbues the designer’s ethos and aesthetic. Today’s show in Florence marked a homecoming for the designer; it was staged in the vast Nelson Mandela Forum, … Read more
In recent years, Eudon Choi has taken to approaching his pre-fall and resort collections as palate cleansers. His inclination has been to present what is (at least at first glance) a more stripped-back offering of his chameleonic wardrobe staples: layered knits, coats with detachable panels and sleeves, or trousers with inventive fastenings and belts, as … Read more
Elie Saab is in a 1970s state of mind. Like the styles of that time, his pre-fall collection covers a lot of territory. But he had one muse in mind overall: the inimitable Vogue editor Diana Vreeland. In her spirit, he titled the collection Perfectly Marvelous. The designer also took other of her admonishments to … Read more
Designers are as curious and cautious about AI as the rest of us. The new technology has been used at basic levels to create prints and to write at least one press release (Stine Goya). Last season Collina Strada and Heliot Emil dove deeper, experimenting with the tech as a design partner. Now Nehera’s Ladislav … Read more
For spring, Natasha Zinko transformed Soho Square, a de facto public park in the heart of central London, into a campsite adorned with tents of innumerable sizes. The Ukrainian designer’s pre-fall collection likewise has an outdoorsy theme, but with a cold-weather approach. “It’s a continuation of what we’ve done before, but everything’s a little bit … Read more
