“High tailoring” is the phrase that describes the pre-fall 2024 Ermanno Scervino collection. Among contrasting shapes, tridimensional surfaces, and neutral, classical evergreen tones, the brand, founded in Florence in 2000, is known for classy and, at the same time, easy-to-wear proposals. Still, being easily wearable doesn’t mean Scervino’s garments lack attention to detail: instead they … Read more
Neil Barrett’s elevator pitch for this collection was The Duke of Devonshire meets The Thin White Duke. He said: “It’s about a character who is modern and completely engaged in the contemporary yet who also has an understanding and respect for what came before: heritage and tradition.” The result was a collection of clothing that, … Read more
Which way will the fashion winds blow when the fall 2024 collections begin in February? If Catherine Holstein’s latest Khaite collection can offer any clues, the 1980s may knock the ’90s and Y2K out of the trend cycle. The shoulder pads on the black leather motorcycle jacket that opens the look book call to mind … Read more
Dean and Dan Caten’s show was about—surprise!—the idea of twins. Who better than the irrepressible Canadian brothers should have a say in the representation of “the two sides of the coin,” as they said backstage? Drawing upon their own reality of being a sort of day-and-night double version of each other offered the Catens the … Read more
“I read some critics in September who said: ‘Oh, he just did a commercial collection for the brand: blah blah blah.’ This is bullshit.” Sabato De Sarno pulled no punches in a preview, and—while riled by last season’s snipings—he declined to let that rhetorical turbulence affect the course of his menswear debut at Gucci this … Read more
For fall 2024, Emily Adams Bode Aujla is introducing a new line with a sportswear bend called Bode Recreation. “It’s our interpretation of American athletic wear, largely inspired from the 1770s through the 1970s, and it’s the first time that we’re introducing certain materials more focused on washability and wearability,” she said at the label’s … Read more
Dean and Dan Caten’s show was about—surprise!—the idea of twins. Who better than the irrepressible Canadian brothers should have a say in the representation of “the two sides of the coin,” as they said backstage? Drawing upon their own reality of being a sort of day-and-night double version of each other offered the Catens the … Read more
Lutz Huelle only ever met the late Alber Elbaz fleetingly—notably at the fashion dinner hosted by President Emmanuel Macron—but the two had more in common than meets the eye. Both were lured to Paris by a dream of working in fashion, and each forged his own signature in an adopted hometown, in a language not … Read more
If success is measured by the size of a brand’s booth at Pitti Uomo’s Padiglione Centrale, then Brunello Cucinelli ranks pretty high. Vast as a ballroom, always crowded to capacity, populated by the designer’s posse of collaborators-turned-models, it’s presided over by the entrepreneur himself, entirely at ease among a constant coming-and-going of clients and friends. … Read more
New year, new Blu: Blumarine pre-fall marks the beginning of the post-Nicola Brognano era. In the revolving doors game of creative directors, where tenures are increasingly getting shorter, he’s been replaced by Walter Chiapponi, formerly at Tod’s. Although this is a transitional collection put together by the design studio, it hints at what’s to come … Read more
