Carolina Castiglioni has a passion for contemporary art nurtured by her cultivated upbringing; her mother being Marni’s founder Consuelo Castiglioni, Carolina certainly has a trained eye. Her Milanese flat is filled with a carefully edited selection of best-in-class vintage furniture from the 1950 and ’60s, together with pieces from upcoming artists. No wonder her Plan … Read more
How do you trace the thread that connects Anthony Vaccarello’s superlative tailoring for Saint Laurent from last fall—all big shoulders and, well, even bigger shoulders—to the sublimely casual insouciance of his humble cotton shirting for this coming spring? That’s where this resort offering comes in, as much a celebration of the house codes—this time round: … Read more
There was no moodboard at Setchu’s fall preview. “I just started the collection from a white sheet of paper,” said designer Satoshi Kuwata. He crumpled a corner of the paper, leaving the rest intact. It was intended as a self-explanatory gesture: the margin joining the crinkles and the flat surface is the liminal, undefined, borderless … Read more
Tod’s presented its fall collection at its usual location, the modernist Villa Necchi Campiglio; it was designed by the in-house studio, as Matteo Tamburini, the new creative director replacing Walter Chiapponi, will stage his first women’s collection in February. The tableau-vivant setup had models sitting on iconic pieces of contemporary design, wrapped with ample swatches … Read more
56 years after launching his very first collection (of ties, under the name Polo), Ralph Lauren is still very much in the saddle. According to the Lauren staffer on hand at this Milan presentation for Purple Label, the designer begins every episode of this collection by considering fabrics, just as you would when commissioning a … Read more
he fashion ley lines run deep and strong beneath Zona Tortona in Milan. Jerry Lorenzo held the first Fear of God presentation that I can ever remember happening during a Fashion Week this evening, in the rented Superstudio space in that neighborhood, where he said: “about 80 percent of this collection is done. And about … Read more
Cooking is a new-ish passion for Our Legacy’s Christopher Nying, who grew up in a home where food was an expression of love. He spread the amore this season by taking over a restaurant in Milan and preparing a meal for a gathering of friends and colleagues. His fall collection, called Feast, was similarly hospitable. … Read more
Cooking is a new-ish passion for Our Legacy’s Christopher Nying, who grew up in a home where food was an expression of love. He spread the amore this season by taking over a restaurant in Milan and preparing a meal for a gathering of friends and colleagues. His fall collection, called Feast, was similarly hospitable. … Read more
Ever since its foundation in 1872 by Eugenio Torelli Viollier—who would go on to launch Corriere della Sera a few years later—the Circolo Filologico Milanese has been dedicated to unravelling the most acute and nuanced cadences of language. This morning Norbert Stumpfl brought his Brioni, which is similarly committed to the minutiae of cultured menswear, … Read more
This epic Emporio Armani voyage was framed by the backdrop of a black lighthouse, and opened and closed with Loredana Berte’s 1983 classic “Il Mare D’inverno (Winter Sea)” on the Teatro sound system. The song is a raspily moody power ballad that includes the (translated) line: “I dive, perplexed, into moments I have already experienced.” … Read more
