Berluti’s attractive Sky Running trail-style sneaker—with specially produced Vibram sole, amplified stitched leather mudguards, and mixed suede leather and mesh uppers, all in multiple tonal colorways—was just one shoe amongst many at this Berluti presentation. However it was the only all-new sneaker. And with the house soonish due to outfit the 800 plus French athletes … Read more
For the record, Who Decides War is making a return to Paris with its fall 2024 menswear collection, not a debut. Ev Bravado and Téla D’Amore’s history in the City of Light is related to their friendship with Heron Preston and Virgil Abloh and dates back to 2018 when WDW did rhinestone workshops with Preston—predating … Read more
“I think our universe has been very floaty, and somehow I feel like this collection is grounding it but still in an elevated way.” So said Cecilie Bahnsen on a call about her pre-fall 2024 collection. It’s been four seasons since the Danish designer started expanding her offering in a distinctive way that makes sense … Read more
Fumito Ganryu was explaining elements of his two collections—the mainline and his newer Red offering – by video call from Tokyo, while the pieces filled a number of racks in a Paris showroom. Red comprises an extroverted palette—from its titular fire engine hue to pylon orange, deep burgundy, and frosty shades of blue—whereas the main … Read more
In corporate culture (at least of yore) the first three months of employment is probationary. At Filippa K, Saint Laurent alum Liisa Kessler’s first three collections were the equivalent of corporate months, but the designer has clearly eased into her position and found her footing with her new collection for fall 2024, which feels confident … Read more
Thinking about legacy is second nature to Bryan Conway, who worked with Christopher Bailey at Burberry. Since joining Tiger of Sweden, Conway’s mission has been to define what a Swedish heritage brand is, and he’s been looking for answers—and materials—from the source. He’s been inspired by the architecture in Stockholm, photographed Swedish tourists in Mallorca … Read more
Daisuke Obana’s aim with N. Hoolywood’s Test Product Exchange Service collections is to adapt military-inspired garments “for town use.” Yet should you go to meet friends in the brand’s safety-yellow hooded topper, or a track suit-ish look with pockets and adjustable cord pulls, they might think you had dropped out of the sky or just … Read more
Thinking about legacy is second nature to Bryan Conway, who worked with Christopher Bailey at Burberry. Since joining Tiger of Sweden, Conway’s mission has been to define what a Swedish heritage brand is, and he’s been looking for answers—and materials—from the source. He’s been inspired by the architecture in Stockholm, photographed Swedish tourists in Mallorca … Read more
That the word “clothes” has become a buzzword, with designers emphasizing newfound commitments to making just really good clothes, is somewhat puzzling. Shouldn’t this have always been the point? Either way, at the Japanese label Auralee, “good clothes” have been a guiding principle from the start. Designer Ryota Iwai has built a devoted fan base … Read more
Black and white at Giambattista Valli? And no reference to the jet-setting lifestyle of his fabulous muses? What’s happened? Zooming from his studio in Paris while prepping for next week’s couture show, he conceded that he felt the pull of urban life and of being present in the here and now, explaining that he has … Read more
