Spoiler alert: no speedos appear in Lazoschmidl’s fall 2024 collection. That’s not to say it’s not a seductive lineup, but it feels like a coming-of-age moment for the brand given the polish, attention to detail, and more “dressed” designs. Though there’s some irony in that, as Josef Lazo and Andreas Schmidl actually cycled back to … Read more
“I don’t really want to mention timelessness,” said 032c’s Maria Koch during a preview of her new collection. “This is too much to ask for when it comes to fashion.” The 032c ready-to-wear label debuted on the runway today in Paris. Having started as a line of merch for the magazine, subsequently developing into a … Read more
Yohji Yamamoto creates like a painter, an architect, a composer, a singer, a writer. He is a designer with an endless fascination for artists—the individualism, the impulses, and the archetypes. Tonight’s show progressed through movements, through scenes, through chapters, through stanzas. From the loosely knotted poets’ blouse and a coat with peaked shoulders, to the … Read more
Johanna Ortiz is gearing up for a major milestone of a year; she is celebrating her 20th anniversary in business. Perhaps that’s why her pre-fall collection had all the markings of a quintessential Johanna Ortiz collection: like a boldly printed caftan with alluring cabochon embroidery around the neckline, or a sequin stripe mini dress with … Read more
All of a sudden, Hed Mayner found himself putting his fall collection together in a time of war. “War was always something that your father and grandfather talked about,” he said during a showroom visit. “Now, for the first time, it’s my generation.” Mayner and his team persisted, focusing on a new tack for him: … Read more
This week, the 2023 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist Angelo Urrutia turned up in Paris with a few noteworthy ideas about honoring French couture, the idea of America, and authorship. “I love American things, from Coca Cola to rock and roll to sports jackets and yoga pants,” the designer said during a walk-through of his fall … Read more
A lot has changed for CDLM’s Chris Peters in the last year. For one, he’s joined the Puppets and Puppets team (the spring 2024 collection was the first one he worked on alongside Carly Mark), but even more importantly, he’s begun a meditation practice. “I never really understood what meditation did, but it’s given me … Read more
Eytys’s spring 2023 Eurotrash T-shirt got a lot of mileage last year. A sort of wearable meme, it tapped into the same vein of kitschy, tabloid glamour that Balenciaga mined for its show in LA. For its fall 2024 collection, Max Schiller, Eytys’s millennial creative director, looked back to the late ’80s and early ’90s—fashion’s … Read more
Were it not for the irresistible lure of Lemaire, people attending today’s show might have opted to remain under the covers, such was the dreary, cold, wet weather this morning. As it happens, the collection duly accommodated both scenarios: soft underpinnings and pajamas for staying in that, through deft layering, do double duty as city … Read more
“When I see people wearing denim today it seems new again,” said Jonny Johansson over speakerphone from Sweden. Kept at home by family matters, he was checking in to the presentation in Paris, where Acne Studios was unveiling the results of the creatively fired founder’s return to a genre he calls “rebellious denim.” The fabric … Read more
