Colin Jones was a British Royal Ballet dancer who joined the company in 1953, and subsequently became a serious photojournalist, covering 1960s war hotspots, social issues and capturing indelible images of British youthquake stars like The Who and Mick Jagger. Among his body of work was an extraordinary 1966 day-in-the-life story for Time Life on … Read more
Mihara Yasuhiro has bittersweet memories of wearing his brother’s hand-me-downs. He liked the sense of possibility when he wore adult clothes, and he also recalls the first time he tagged along to a disco, when he was about 11-years-old. “When I entered I felt like I had stepped into this glittery, glossy, nocturnal world, and … Read more
There’s a lot below the surface in Y-3’s marriage of fashion and activewear. Simply put, in order for you to play hard and look great while doing so, these garments have a lot of work to do, and they are aided in that task by technology. There’s a constant play between the natural (be that … Read more
SPIRITUAL WORLD. White is symbolic of prayer. The lines above are transcribed directly from the note Rei Kawakubo wrote, and had translated into English to accompany—if not directly to explain—her Comme des Garçons Homme Plus show. Well, you knew what she was saying. Helpless before the state of the world, what can we do but … Read more
Hideaki Shikama has been in an introspective mood. “I’ve been reconsidering Children of the Discordance and also rethinking myself,” said the designer during a preview of this fall 2024 lineup. More specifically, Shikama has been ruminating on how he can continue to use his label as a vehicle to pursue originality and how he can … Read more
If you are in the middle of a pre-collection appointment and you suddenly find yourself talking about the Large Hadron Collider at CERN, then you can only be meeting with Coperni’s Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant. “As you know, we are very inspired by technology and innovation—it’s our passion,” Meyer said on a recent Zoom … Read more
David Koma’s fondness for birds and feathers has become ubiquitous in his designs. However, while still drawing inspiration from avian elements, his pre-fall collection deviated from his usual practice of dedicating his collection to a single muse. Instead, he chose to honor the high-society women of New York from the mid ’60s, whom Truman Capote … Read more
Dries Van Noten put together an essay on what he called “the elegance of the unexpected” for his fall men’s show. In many ways it read as another chapter of the “familiar-unfamiliar, unfamiliar-familiar” theme he talked about at his last women’s show. He started and ended with elongated, black tailored coats in silhouettes that made … Read more
Martine Rose convened another of her phenomenally heart-warming, powerfully directional shows in London on January 6. Roses were everywhere—grandparents, parents, sisters, brothers, cousins, and her children. Friends stood, whooped, danced, and cheered while the models—a cast of her favorite local heroes—proceeded to high-style it out. It was part Vogue ball, part riotous community fund-raising event—a … Read more
As fashion has embraced a pared-down, how does a label unabashedly partial to bold figurative imagery adjust? Francesca Ruffini’s attitude is one of smart flexibility, trying to navigate today’s change of mood without losing her distinctive style. “I’ve always tried to make my voice rise above the noise of trends,” she said. This season she … Read more
