For his second outing on the Paris couture calendar, Robert Wun picked up more or less where he left off, expanding on ideas like last season’s blood-spattered gowns with new propositions culled primarily from his favorite films. It was also an exercise in gratitude, he said, as this year marks the 10th anniversary of his … Read more
Through Nicholas Daley’s distinctive lens, a print is never just a print. (Even if that eye-catching plaid or block pattern does serve its purpose as a print, drawing attention to a pair of trousers or a jacket.) Instead, for Daley, a print is a window into the world—or, more accurately, worlds—he’s exploring each season; a … Read more
With AZ Factory, Alber Elbaz wanted to become the little brand that could, offering young designers a top-flight atelier that would make their dreams come true. “He wanted to invite them to think about the ritual of couture in a way that speaks to their generation,” said Mauro Grimaldi, who oversees the brand’s development. “Our … Read more
If you placed Teurn Studios’s pre-fall collection on a Venn diagram it would represent the meeting of bougie polish and boyish (vs. tomboy) charm. Anna Teurnell, who lives not far from a school, has recently been taken by how “young guys look in Sweden, with their fly hairdos, jackets, slouchy trousers. They are so natural and … Read more
Hung La, the Vietnamese-American co-founder of Kwaidan Editions and the designer behind this bad-boy brand—its name means “dangerous man” in Vietnamese—brought his sixth collection to Paris this week, taking over a small gallery in the arty-scruffy upper reaches of the rue Saint Martin. An engineer by training, La earned his stripes working at Balenciaga in … Read more
Ranra designers Arnar Már Jónsson and Luke Stevens are well aware that on first sight their fall collection doesn’t look wildly different from the previous two; but they are confident that the clothes fit and feel better. The designers returned to being completely hands-on, which is maybe why the outdoor clothes they shot inside in … Read more
“Well, it only took 10 years!” exclaimed Karl Lindman backstage at Toteme with his wife and cofounder Elin Kling by his side. Over the past decade, the brand has grown mightily in cachet, clientele, and commercial success without ever staging a proper fashion show. Lindman noted that they are perfectionists, hence one reason for holding … Read more
For almost a year, The Elder Statesman’s Greg Chait and Bailey Hunter had been discussing the idea of starting a surf label. “Surfing can be more than just surfing,” Chait said on a Zoom from the Paris showroom where they’re holding market appointments. “You can surf waves of many different things; it’s such a good … Read more
Substitute “he” or “they” for “she” in ZZ Top’s famous lyrics—“She got legs / She knows how to use them”—and you come directly to one of Stefano Pilati’s preoccupations for his fall 2024 Random Identities collection. Gams, pins, sticks…call them what you will, but they’re on show in the designer’s interpretation of formal, skin-baring Bermuda-ish … Read more
Rachel Antonoff has been thinking about butter. Butter as the ultimate condiment that makes everything better, as an easily attainable luxury and indulgence. There was a simple tank top with a crochet trim and the image of a salted butter bar on the chest, which was worn with a wrap skirt with a “floral” print … Read more
