Stepping into Dušan’s showroom, nestled in an elegant building on a quiet Milan street, feels like entering a preternaturally serene space, filled with museum-worthy ancient and Egyptian art treasures (he’s an eager collector) surrounded by an extraordinary installation of bonsai trees. Dušan Paunovic exists in a world of his own—he’s resistant to novelties, serves a … Read more
An elegantly slashed-sleeve cashmere sweater (that allows you to wear it arms in or out) worn with a hem-sashed skirt. An organic cotton trench with an added scallop of (removable) ruffles. A valentine-red dress with a soft asymmetric fall. All these soft touches indicated that BITE Studios was in a romantic mood for spring. As … Read more
“Made in Italy” is a broad umbrella concept under which innumerable smaller bottegas (workshops) sit—from tailors to textile makers, and specialists who work with leather, raffia, and other materials. It would seem, then, that differences of scale on the production end are a given, so why are so few piccolo-sized brands on or adjacent to … Read more
“It might not be much, but a window that opens onto the street is all I need,” said Arthur Arbesser. He’s always been obsessed with windows, watching life unfold through the glass when the lights turn on at night. The place where he presented his spring 2025 collection felt like a small white box, with … Read more
Filippo Grazioli went crafty, artsy and (why not?) a bit crazy for spring. He fully unleashed his inner eccentric on the runway, fearlessly and almost obsessively exploring Missoni’s zig-zag pattern with an avant-garde verve that felt instinctive and urgent. Backstage before the show, he explained that he wanted to re-energize Missoni’s bold artistic spirit and … Read more
The spring 1997 Versus show was Donatella Versace’s starting point for spring 2025. It was fashion’s pre-internet pre-history when elevated runways were still commonplace, as were the photographers who lined up against them. Can you imagine the clamoring today, if front-row content makers couldn’t get their iPhone shots? Versus was Donatella’s baby, a diffusion collection … Read more
Loro Piana shows its men’s and women’s collections intermingled on mannequins. Walking through the crowd of strikingly styled and hat-heavy—especially in womenswear—static ensembles today we heard how these collections majored on linen, and saw some interesting fabrications. It turns out if you mix linen with cashmere in an undyed cable knit cardigan, its hand-feel retains … Read more
Ironically, for a designer who resides in London (a city known for its gloomy and gray weather), Eudon Choi has a deep love for sunshine. Choi took a trip to Paris when designing his spring 2025 collection; he stopped by the artist Cy Twombly’s photographic exhibition and found that the two had a few things … Read more
When Fiordaliso’s 1986 hit “Non Voglio Mica La Luna” kicked in as the models walked their finale lap at Gucci today, the crowd started bopping in their seats and singing along. Sabato De Sarno’s first year at this brand hasn’t always been easy, but he set out to put a sunny, happy spin on things … Read more
Loro Piana shows its mens and women’s collections intermingled on mannequins. Walking through the crowd of strikingly styled and hat-heavy—especially in womenswear—static ensembles today we heard how these collections majored on linen, and saw some interesting fabrications. It turns out if you mix linen with cashmere in an undyed cable knit cardigan, its hand-feel retains … Read more
