Quira’s fall presentation was held at the Oratoire du Louvre, a rather solemn location that framed what Veronica Leoni called “a raw, crude, textural collection.” The tension between abstraction and physicality, control and release is what makes her designs so compelling; here, she went for a more rigorous approach than in previous outings, indulging less … Read more
For both pre-fall and fall 2024, Christopher Esber is exploring the different facets of nostalgia. “I wanted to create this idea of summer past and present for day-to-evening and also express the idea of erosion and decay in textiles,” he explained via Zoom from his studio in Sydney. That translated into some compelling plays on … Read more
Rabih Kayrouz is always in his element when interacting directly with people: nudging someone to try on a jacket; showing off a gown’s construction (or remarkable lack thereof); tracing the lines of a skirt like a calligraphic gesture. As he arrives at the 25th anniversary of his label, he has been welcoming people to a … Read more
The Paris Olympics are right around the corner, and Mira Mikati is carrying that spirit into fall with her own twist. “Where I used to be into checks, now I’m into stripes,” the designer said during a preview, showing a low-slung tennis skirt not in white but gray, double layered with a new accessory: striped … Read more
By calling his Fall-Winter collection “Society,” Alexis Mabille said he was giving a nod to today’s café society, one that travels the world constantly and might at any minute be confronted with an invitation to a gala or last-minute charity benefit. That customer needs a dress in her back pocket, so to speak, which is … Read more
Caroline Hu showed a series of one-of-a-kind pieces in a dilapidated Paris apartment, whose dark, moody atmosphere somehow offset the lineup’s flamboyance, its intricate execution and the vibrancy of printed surfaces. Generous plays of draping and layering made every creation a fantastical, voluminous presence, each taking lots of space and attention. “It’s about relationships and … Read more
With awards season in full swing, it’s only natural that Roland Mouret should find himself leaning hard into glamour. Few designers, after all, know how to deliver a red-carpet moment with the same combination of dazzle and savoir faire as Mouret, evidenced by stars like Carey Mulligan and Olivia Colman wearing gowns of his at … Read more
Alessandra Rich riffed on the naughty ingénue repertoire she favors for her fall presentation; to make the message coming across, the label’s Art Deco showroom was set up as a boudoir. In one of the rooms of the sprawling marble-lined space, a decadent four-poster bed was bedecked with white lace curtains and a red velvet … Read more
Harris Reed noted how he’s been working up to this collection. “I think I can confidently say, hate or love it, this is the Nina woman for me in 2024,” he said. “She is this fierce French woman from an outside perspective, but that’s what makes it me and makes it hopefully special.” There’s been … Read more
Anna Teurnell is in top form. The Swedish designer—who has just been named creative director of Filippa K—landed a resounding one-two punch with knock-out pre-fall and fall collections for her namesake label (which she will continue to lead). Launched just three years ago, Teurn Studios is a sleeper brand that should be better known; especially … Read more
