“I feel every day when I’m in the garment district it’s a battle, so I wanted to do something that was a little bit autobiographical, and I didn’t want to do a full take on military,” explained Andrea Mary Marshall of her tightly edited, body conscious collection. It so happens that in telling her own … Read more
Sunday night was something of a homecoming for Masu’s Shinpei Goto. Officially opening Tokyo Fashion Week with a screening of a film of his Paris debut at the men’s shows in January, the designer gathered Tokyo’s fashion industry and his growing community of followers—called Masu Boys—to celebrate. (The fact that Masu’s fans have their own … Read more
The idea of freedom had been playing on Sayori Tanaka’s mind this season. “There are many people around the world whose freedom is being restricted in various ways, and I feel resentful and angry about that, so the collection expressed this,” the designer explained following her fall show, which was held in the vast hall … Read more
Prabal Gurung, a Bill Blass alum, knows from swans because they used to flock to that house back in the day. He’s just as clued into what his own customers want and need—and it’s not sweatpants. “We’ve always had a small private client business,” the designer explained on a studio visit. (Taika Waititi and Rita … Read more
There was no overarching inspiration at Daniel Silver and Steven Cox’s Duckie Brown this season. The collection is a reflection of Cox’s pure, undiluted sense of color and shape. On the walls inside their West Village studio, loose leaf papers were taped to the wall, each one bearing an abstract expressionist croquis, some more immediately … Read more
If the weather gods were on Shinya Kozuka’s side at his last show in the summer, tonight it seemed they were demanding payback. On possibly the most miserable rainy evening of the year so far, the designer held his fall show in the (drained, but still very wet) outdoor pool of the Tokyo Prince Hotel. … Read more
Feeling, as he said on a call, that “the word is kind of sick,” Lamine Badian Kouyaté—a man who has never been afraid to take a stand for what he believes in—staged his fall 2024 show in respectful silence. The show took place at Le Sentier, a neighborhood that was once the heart of the … Read more
A recent trip to Vietnam left such a strong impression on Chinese designer Shuting Qiu that she wanted to translate it into her new fall collection. In fact, for this season, Qiu took inspiration not only from the atmospheres and colors of that enchanting country, but also from Vietnamese artist Lê Phổ, a master of … Read more
A towering black obelisk—or maybe a half-flipped Asterix–loomed over us in the far, far, away Aubervillier TV soundstage to which Coperni had transported us as its late-night space. The obelisk (very Kubrick) lit up as John Williams’s The Conversation from Spielberg’s Close Encounters of The Third Kind played. “The collection is a whole sci-fi tribute,” … Read more
Copenhagen-based brothers Julius and Victor Juul of Heliot Emil remain committed to Paris while rethinking their brand’s relationship to the catwalk. For fall, they hosted a pop-up/exhibition in the capital in order to draw attention to their second collaboration with Alpinestars, an Italian company focused on motor sports and material innovation. This time around, the … Read more
