It’s an angsty world out there right now, with a lot of reasons to be concerned—climate change, a redo American election, and the disappearance of the middle class, just to name a few. Many designers have been expressing a sense of apprehension through their recent collections. As for John Elliott, he’s been there, done that, … Read more
Keisuke Yoshida held his fall show on the campus grounds of Rikkyo University, a private Christian institution where the designer went to school as a child. For 16 bittersweet years Yoshida, now 33, shuffled around this place, and tonight the memories of that forlorn little boy came back to haunt it once more. The runway … Read more
Takahiro Miyashita’s fall collection was what the designer called “a cacophony of eternal pieces,” made up of a selection of reimagined items taken from the designer’s own wardrobe. How intimate! And how very Miyashita. He called it Days of our Youth, a look back on his favorite eras—punk, as usual, shone through—and it served as … Read more
It’s a great time to be Barbara Tfank. Having stayed true to herself and her vision of elegance and femininity, she’s finding that there has been a return to glamour in fashion—especially with the revival of so-called Swan culture. “There’s a kind of joy in dressing again. It’s great to see people looking back at … Read more
“We’ve done a collaboration with a female wrestling club this season,” said Paula Canovas del Vas at her Paris presentation. Kitted out in her argyle-checkered mesh body-pieces, the combatants were tangling on a mat while “her referees” circled the game, sporting the rest of the fall collection. The Spanish designer is known for her surrealistically-tweaked … Read more
Kim Jones was planning on unveiling his Dior Men pre-fall collection in Hong Kong on March 23. The show was going to follow the model of the house’s runway spectacle in Egypt in December of 2022 until it was postponed indefinitely last month. Jones is presenting the collection via this lookbook instead. “Elegance” and “effortlessness” … Read more
If there’s an air of period drama about A.W.A.K.E this fall, it’s no coincidence: Natalia Alaverdian has been immersing herself in the Renaissance of late. Her algorithm-fueled rendezvous with Barry Lyndon, The Favorite, Elizabeth, and Orlando were bound to filter through one way or the other. “It’s not just the costumes, I found the ambiance … Read more
Viviano Sue’s fall collection was a personal reckoning for the designer, and the diasporic identity he’s spent his adult life grappling with. With a childhood fractured between the US, China, and Japan, Sue spoke of how he’d never felt like he belonged anywhere, and had struggled to find his community. Fast forward to now, and … Read more
Fashion heaved a collective sigh when news broke in the midst of Milan Fashion Week that Glenn Martens canceled his Y/Project show. That a designer as high profile and influential as Martens is facing financial pressures of this kind serves to confirm what we’ve all heard whispered: that the system isn’t really working for independent … Read more
Like great jazz musicians that know how to improvise on a score, Yu Kobayashi and Yuji Abe of Irenisa have a formidable knowledge of clothes making which helps them riff on the classics and create menswear that expertly toes the line between disciplined and playful. During a walkthrough of their fall collection at their showroom … Read more
