Like gazing at the clouds, or staring at the inkblots of a Rorschach test, the beauty in Ryunosuke Okazaki’s work is that it can appear as almost anything. Is that a butterfly? A kabuki mask? The face of a frog? Nothing is planned or intended; everything is open to interpretation. “There’s a strange feeling that … Read more
We were at Ralph Lauren’s 650 Madison Avenue headquarters for his show tonight. A few hours before its start time, a press release came through: The designer’s first womenswear show—in 1972!—was also held in his offices. In the 52 years that separate that inaugural moment and this one, much has changed, as black-and-white photos tracked … Read more
For her fall collection, Sonia Carrasco focused on the guts of her textile artistry. “We wanted to expose that inner part, to show where the piece started from, to reveal the process,” she explained. She opened with a crisp blazer, with a design that moved towards a more manipulated shape, altered through cut and stitching. … Read more
If there is a creative engine that drives Habey Club, it’s the love of movies. The Spanish brand’s newest collection was inspired by the recent dark comedy Sick of Myself, a story that delves into the problem of histrionic personality disorder through a main character who is capable of trespassing dangerous limits, such as inflicting … Read more
Simon Miller is continuing its world tour. Following trips to the Scottish Highlands and the Tuscan countryside, Chelsea Hansford found inspiration for her pre-fall 2024 collection in Tangier, Morocco. While her locales of choice are always awash with natural beauty, Hansford routinely takes interest in a place’s architecture. “I imagined this woman in our collection … Read more
“It needs to feel sincere, real, and functional.” On a spring morning in Paris last week, Chemena Kamali was introducing the ethos of the first collection she designed for Chloé, which was pre-fall 2024. Sort of back-to-front, it’s now being made public two months after her enthusiastically-applauded debut runway show for fall. There’s no accounting … Read more
The Apple TV+ show The New Look climaxes with Christian Dior’s Paris haute couture debut in 1947. A collection of voluptuous curves and prodigious use of material, it rocked the fashion world, setting trends that would last a decade and sparking actual fights in the streets. As radical as the new silhouette was in post-war … Read more
Ten years after making his runway debut, Leandro Cano returned to his origins. For his fall 2024 proposal, titled Menú, the designer went back to the same moodboard he had made for his first collection. “In Buffet, my first collection, there was a little bit of everything,” he said at the car park in Madrid’s … Read more
For Mans’ fall collection, Jaime Álvarez took us on a trip to rural Britain, interspersed with a country-kitsch personal touch. “That English countryside can also be perfectly Andalusian,” he said with a laugh. “I’m bringing it home.” He fused both themes, while keeping tailoring, the house’s strongest asset, as a common thread. His main intention … Read more
Ivy League style—as adopted in Japan—was at the core of Moisés Nieto’s fall 2024 show. The Spanish designer described his lineup as “a truthful collection without artifice.” Thus, sober pieces were the stars of an offering that updated this imported look which was popular among the Japanese youth in the ’60s and ’70s, while also … Read more
