Among many other things, Conner Ives is an excellent storyteller. As he talked through his latest collection, titled Camelot, the designer spun a rip-roaring yarn of a journey from the medieval lords and ladies of Arthurian legend through to the invocation of Camelot by Jackie O to describe the Kennedy administration, all the way up … Read more
This season, fashion has largely chosen to react to the current socio political and economic chaos with a kind of peaceful protest expressed through softness and prettiness. These attributes are, of course, often found in lingerie, by which Anna October is always inspired. “My constant thinking is about the female body and femininity and how … Read more
Roland Mouret knows his customer well. Leafing through the rails of clothing in the bright, high-ceilinged studio space he shares with Self-Portrait’s Han Chong, it was hard not to be struck by their tactile, near-seductive desirability—especially for the kind of sleek urban woman (with a handful of events to attend every week) that is his … Read more
Congratulations are in order: Meryll Rogge married her partner this past May in the same small fishing village, Cadaqués, where Salvador Dalí once lived (his house has been preserved as a museum), and where the designer’s family has a home. This joyous occasion inspired a very personal collection. “Usually you are like, ‘Okay, what are … Read more
The Courrèges invitation was a metal mobius strip, and its infinite loop nature provided a clue about Nicolas Di Felice’s designs for spring. Where many of the skin-baring looks appeared to be two pieces—a tank dress worn with a bandeau bra, say—they were in fact one. He achieved this particular item by designing the halter-style … Read more
For several seasons now, Alexis Mabille has kept his most lavish creative displays for couture week, preferring instead to show an evening capsule collection during the Paris ready-to-wear shows. It’s his way of reminding his younger base that he’s got them covered with his signature silhouettes and shapes, plus a seasonal twist on color and … Read more
Hiding in plain sight. To enter Umit Benan’s laid-back mellow showroom, you had to go through an imposing steel door. Behind it, a getaway from Milan’s chaotic environment—warm, cozy furniture and a little nested courtyard full of greenery that gave way to a discovery of finely tailored garments that complemented the setting perfectly. “We are … Read more
“It felt really right to do something fundamentally about love and strength,” said Phoebe English. “And the sort of sanctuary we can find when things are very dark and externally frightening.” In her last collection, the heart motif cropped up in the form of an almost-Victorian chocolate-boxy padded tie-on breastplate. This time, it multiplied all … Read more
Han Chong is always plotting something. In the short space of just three months, the designer has—deep breath—released a 35-look Resort collection; staged the most extravagant of his annual summer parties at the Roof Gardens in Kensington; opened a marble-and-steel flagship in the center of Bangkok; and welcomed Christopher Kane as Self-Portrait’s first designer-in-residence, (back … Read more
Daniel Fletcher has been busy living his life. That is why it’s been a minute since you’ve seen his label on the runway, and why this season he opted for a lookbook rather than a show. It’s also why he’s been playing around with his presentation schedule—that and the fact that he’s now repositioned his … Read more
