Hot and cold, casual and dressy, for home and away… Resort is a season that caters to very disparate needs; needs far different from those of the elite sun-seekers for whom croisière (cruise) collections were originally devised. The audience for fashion has changed, as has the pace of life, the climate, and even HVAC technology, … Read more
Nicky Zimmermann has been in the business for three decades and in that time has perfected her ability to connect the past with the present. Her resort 2023 collection looked to the ’50s and ’60s for inspiration; while her fall 2024 show had a touch of the ’70s. This season, she looked back to her … Read more
“The prices are fantastic and everything’s washable,” said Norma Kamlai of her resort 2025 collection. “So it’s like: have fun, glam up, have a good time, but then don’t feel horrible because you just spent too much money.” This has always been the designer’s approach, but, like many others, she’s leaning into versatility and considering … Read more
Gabriela Hearst’s resort lookbook was photographed at Avebury Circle, the UK and the world’s largest stone circle and a pilgrimage site dating to 2850-2200 B.C., making it older than Egypt’s pyramids. Hearst is drawn to such places; she’s New York fashion’s most devoted mystic; she talks unabashedly of witches and warlocks, daring you to raise … Read more
Filippo Grazioli riffed on a familiar Missoni repertoire for resort: Silhouettes alternated between the slender and the skintight, patterns jibed with the brand’s popular zigzags and fiammato, and the color palette was restrained yet with a summery feel. Grazioli favors clean lines while being partial to what he describes as a “gentle sensuality” that the … Read more
Nadège Vanhée let her inner New Yorker out tonight. The Hermès artistic director was going on four years in the city when she was plucked from The Row’s design studio by Axel Dumas, Hermès’s executive chairman. Ten years later, a milestone not many designers manage to reach at heritage labels these days, she’s still going … Read more
The backside of a black car was sticking out of a window on the Grand Street side of Alexander Wang’s Soho store last night. A crash scene? That’s what CCTV video posted to his Instagram Stories earlier in the day suggested. Talk about a loaded metaphor! His brand is about to turn 20, but provocation … Read more
Nellie Partow tried to find a pithy encapsulation of the inspiration for her latest resort collection. “I find that sometimes it’s hard to articulate [something] specific, but I really resonate with women and their real-life moments and experiences,” she said. “In my design process I try to be true to myself because that’s the only … Read more
Construction is underway in a new uptown retail space for Adam Lippes, though retail isn’t quite the way to put it. Rather than opening another store—Houston, which bowed in May, was his second after a boutique in Brookfield Place in lower Manhattan—Lippes is creating a by-appointment salon, a place to engage one-on-one with his clothes … Read more
“Resort,” mused Tanya Taylor, “is one of those seasons that’s definitely between moods…it has to be a lot of things.” The opening look of her collection, a cheery explosion of texture, color, and graphics, does indeed embrace a sense of muchness. “I love mixing stripes, I love playful color combinations, and the spirit of resort … Read more
