As always, Bibhu Mohapatra has a theme and muses—Françoise Hardy and Georgia O’Keeffe meet in a garden, this season—but they are mostly beside the point. Silhouette, textiles, and craftsmanship are the real story here. Let’s start with embroidery; of note is a relatively restrained exploded grid pattern of abstract florals with an Art Deco feeling … Read more
Amid the upheaval in Paris these days is a quiet gathering of speed at the oldest continuously operating couture house in the world. Today, Lanvin will unveil its latest store, inside the bustling Galeries Lafayette flagship here. The move, which brings the house its third boutique in the French capital, follows last month’s opening of … Read more
The Elder Statesman founder Greg Chait and its creative director Bailey Hunter like to come up with elaborate concepts for their collections—and their lookbooks—that match the level of creative exploration and expression that they’ve come to be known for. This season, it was the classic All-American catalogs that rose to prominence in the 1980s and … Read more
Fashion brands today work according to their own clockwork, as the concept of “seasonal” has been reduced to an elusive notion. This pre-fall bridges elements from Jil Sander’s spring and fall collections, yet following the laws of retail, it hits shop floors now, coinciding with this review. If you’d compare this timeline, say, with Netflix, … Read more
The first look in Brandon Maxwell’s resort collection is a black pantsuit, streamlined and sleek in his familiar fashion, save for the details. The jacket’s brass buttons were hand-hammered by Maxwell himself for a ripply three-dimensional texture and the brass belt buckle was hand-poured. No two buttons or belt buckles will be the same. His … Read more
Andrea Lieberman continues to design with her most loyal customer in mind: herself. Although she maintains that she designs for multiple generations (she has a teenage daughter, who helped her expand her perspective), she acknowledges that her DNA is woven into her clothing. “I think the customer we design for some of the time is … Read more
Sandy Liang was in the final few months of her first pregnancy while designing her resort collection. Maybe that’s why she looked to her own childhood for inspiration. “I thought it would be really fun to do an office edit of a little girl’s version of what a woman’s closet looks like,” the designer said. … Read more
Daniel Delcore just fêted the opening of his Madison Avenue flagship in New York last week; it is his second store after London’s Bond Street, which was inaugurated in 2022. The prime locations were obviously chosen to indicate the brand’s high-end positioning—which is no small achievement for a company launched only four years ago. While … Read more
Good news for fans of Apple TV+’s Palm Royale series, which is set amidst the high society of Palm Beach: designer Monique Lhuillier’s entire spring assortment is inspired by the South Florida destination, known for its elevated beach style. “I’ve only been there a few times, but every time I’m there, I really understand the … Read more
A springtime trip to see a Pre-Raphaelites exhibition at the Museo San Domenico in Forli, Italy, inspired Anna Sui’s new collection. Back here in New York, Rossetti’s Prosperine and The Beguiling of Merlin and Love Among the Ruins by Edward Burne-Jones appeared on her mood board wall, among many other paintings of the period. “He … Read more
