Cecilie Bahnsen says her brand is growing up with her, and the resort lookbook images support that claim. The silhouettes might be familiar—the frilled pouf dress, the denim jacket with peplum godets—yet things felt a bit more pared back, as in a shimmering gray set with same color flower appliqué, or another tonal reverie, in … Read more
Todd Snyder was thinking about America, specifically the Pacific Northwest, for the spring Woolrich Black Label collection; his second as global creative director. “Traditionally Woolrich is known as a fall brand,” he said, fresh off a flight back to New York from Milan where the runway show was held. “But really, it’s this great, iconic … Read more
Tod’s menswear presentation was held at Milan’s Pavilion of Contemporary Art, which served as a fitting frame for creative director Matteo Tamburini’s first menswear outing. It was a clear indication of the direction he wants the label to take—streamlined yet light-handed design, supple but precise construction, “a balance between tradition and modernity,” as he said. … Read more
Alessandro Michele is bringing his prolific, almost prodigious creativity to Valentino. Just two months after being appointed creative director, today he’s releasing his first resort collection for the Roman maison, called Avant les Débuts. The 171 ready-to-wear looks, plus 93 images of (rather delightful) shoes, bags, and various accessories, were revealed through an impromptu zoom … Read more
In a sports car speed is key, but when working on a new project, patience and awareness are essential if one wants to achieve credibility. Today Ferrari showed its first resort collection: it has been three years since the brand began competing in the luxury clothing space. “I am very proud of our work” said … Read more
“Quietly confident” was how Simon Holloway described his mood at a preview the day before his second collection for Dunhill, which unfolded in a Milanese garden on Sunday afternoon. Getting into the groove of his role, which he has now been in for just over a year, the 52-year-old designer has pulled back from the … Read more
David Koma is all about his crew. Through his womenswear he’s already built a solid following of enthusiastic subscribers to his graphic brand of powerful evening wear. Now, after 15 years, he’s trying to broaden his base by providing clothes that his male soulmates will want to get into, too. At a preview, he said: … Read more
Nanushka creative director Sandra Sándor’s take on resort didn’t dilute her codes, it reinforced them. Following a fall collection derived from her own core memories, the Hungarian designer used nostalgia as her primary form of inspiration. Budapest, the place where she was born and raised, again served as a foundation, but this time she focussed … Read more
It was as we galloped into the last ten or so looks of this entertainingly wild and equestrian Emporio Armani collection that the tone so specifically shifted. Some bicolor olive-on-lavender horse photo print shirts, then an ultra-light lavender suede suit and trucker prefaced two soft peak collar jackets that veered more towards purple and lilac … Read more
There are so many details in menswear that have all the practical use of an appendix: vestigial organs whose use has long outlived their original functional purpose, and which are only retained out of habit, nostalgia and ceremony. In his collection shown this afternoon, Neil Barrett applied his eye to some of these overlooked hand-me-downs … Read more
