After a brief hiatus, Études is back with its original “Studio” tacked back onto its name. It also has a “renewed temporality,” as founders José Lamali, Jérémy Egry, and Aurélien Arbet put it (today’s outing was a two-fer, numbered 24 and 25, for this winter and next summer). While they were at it, a new … Read more
Elie Saab’s resort collection lands amid a whirlwind: Last month, the designer unveiled a 26-look capsule of see-now-buy-now collaboration with the Istanbul-based retailer Ipekyol. He’s also moving ahead with a first branded residential tower in Abu Dhabi, putting the final touches on a couture collection for Paris, and preparing an “Elie’s World” extravaganza to be … Read more
Rosie Assoulin is finding the balance in contradictions. Drapery and rigidity, khaki mixed with floral jacquards, and serious suiting in playful patterns all comprise Assoulin’s resort 2025 offering. “It’s light and unserious, but with real construction, and subtle fabrics,” she said. “[We are] trying to still appeal to our luxury tastes, but with a more … Read more
School is still in session for Ambush’s Yoon Ahn, who is continuing her exploration of “Ambush Academy” for the label’s resort collection. “Fall was Ivy League, a more preppy kind of vibe; but this season we’re taking it to the quirky art class kids,” she explained on a Zoom call from Japan. “There’s more cuteness, … Read more
This stop-motion show was monumental for the brand, and I think it represents KidSuper in its truest form. I had done two fashion shows prior to this one, which were off-calendar shows. I had gotten rejected from the official Paris Fashion Week menswear calendar both times, and this is the first show where I got … Read more
Just a few days before Greta Constantine designer Kirk Pickersgill debuted his new resort collection, the designer attended a gala for the National Ballet of Canada in Toronto—and was struck by just how many women he spotted in his evening gowns. “It was a huge compliment,” he said. The fact that his designs were thriving … Read more
The setting for this Auralee show was none other than the hôtel des Maisons, the 18th century hôtel particulier that once served as Karl Lagerfeld’s primary residence a stone’s throw away from the Seine in Paris’s left bank. But it wasn’t the grandiosity of its interiors that attracted designer Ryota Iwai, it was its gardens. … Read more
Ah, the archives! For any designer appointed at a brand with a past and cachet, they’re places of wonder to mine. At Ferragamo, Maximilian Davis’s access to the label’s trove of past collections has helped him establish a minimalistic aesthetic, underpinned by classicism and infused with a certain sensuality that “feels very Italian,” he said … Read more
Alberta Ferretti works a lot, but also “lives a lot,” as she said at a resort appointment. “If you don’t live, you don’t know what women want.” In a fashion system where creative directors are mostly male, Ferretti has carved her own path through decades of dedication to an idea of romantic pragmatism. “I am … Read more
Maria Cornejo has been using responsibly made fabrics for years. Few are better placed than she is to make the troubling observation that fabric mills are discontinuing these kinds of materials and turning back to less responsibly made ones. Hazarding a guess at a showroom visit earlier this week, she figured it was happening because … Read more
