With its classic palette (black, white, red, and beige) and the honesty of the fabrics (cotton, wool, denim, leather, and suede) it serves up a very current mix of creativity, functionality, and relevancy. Oh, and let’s throw in desirability here too, because he has also delivered that in spades. “I really need to work [the … Read more
The fashion crowd after these shows often reacts with a swoon combined with imagining that, in a parallel world, we might all be dressed in Lemaire. The brand even plays into this, conjuring a conceptual sidewalk within its Place des Vosges premises, where models appear like poised city types exiting a building, pausing mid-stroll, or … Read more
There’s a cool clarity to Bryan Conway’s new collection for Tiger of Sweden that is absolutely refreshing. Whereas in the past it has felt like the designer was hesitating at the edge of the diving board, for spring 2025 he dove unhesitatingly into things while also bringing the work closer to home. Consider an irresistible … Read more
This hardcore tropical Wales Bonner collection was colored by the archive of Althea McNish, who emigrated from Trinidad to the UK aged 27 in 1950. McNish’s talent for graphic design and longing for home combined to fuel the saturated intensity of her textiles, which proved highly successful commissions for English interiors stalwarts such as Heal’s … Read more
“This is the fourth unfolding of a new development for Canali, born with our fall/winter 2023 collection, which aims to provoke evolution on the basis of its founding values: quality of materials, constructions, and a trendy addition that is never the subject, but rather a form of completeness.” So said Stefano Canali, third-generation custodian of … Read more
After this season, Walter Van Beirendonck will be one of just two of the famed Antwerp Six still designing their eponymous labels, and the only one left standing on the runway circuit. Perhaps this is why, as guests scattered around roses and carnations and other foliage at the garden location of his show today, the … Read more
There’s a cool clarity to Bryan Conway’s new collection for Tiger of Sweden that is absolutely refreshing. Whereas in the past it has felt like the designer was hesitating at the edge of the diving board, for spring 2025 he dove unhesitatingly into things while also bringing the work closer to home. Consider an irresistible … Read more
Masu’s Shinpei Goto is a serial rulebreaker. This season the Japanese designer took Ivy League style—a faction of menswear fraught with sartorial regulations—and reinterpreted it in his own playful way. “The rules of Ivy Style are so strict and regimented, it feels like a taboo to touch them,” he said after the show. He’d called … Read more
Years in the making, the opening of Acnes Studios HQ in Paris was decidedly worth the wait. There will be more to reveal soon; let’s just say the building, located in the 10th arrondissement, gives off a carefully calibrated clash of opulent and raw, with the spaces as well-suited to a party or photo-shoot as … Read more
For Maggie Marilyn’s Maggie Hewitt, the last few years have been about resets and new beginnings. She’s in the middle of the changes begun during Covid, and she recently gave birth to her first child. “The first years of Maggie Marilyn we had such rapid growth; Net-a-Porter was one of our first stockists, we got … Read more
