Like a good playlist, Mfpen’s latest collection evokes emotions that exist almost outside of time. Though there are hesitant dabs of light blue and pale yellow, the clothes are mostly rendered in a palette of moody grays and blacks that hardly scream “spring.” Ditto for materials like pinstripe (these are tropical weight). Because Mfpen uses … Read more
The venue for 032c’s second-ever runway show was designed to feel like the scene of the crime after a long and sweaty rave. “You know, like how at Berghain the shutters go up when the sun starts to rise,” said Maria Koch, holding an iPhone photo to illustrate the idea to this reviewer, who, unfortunately, … Read more
Recently named creative lead at Filippa K, Anna Teurnell has channeled her vaguely preppy leanings there and gone on a rave at her namesake line. The opening look of her resort is a pair of many-strapped roomy pants worn with a shirt in the same whisper gray linen. You might say the designer backed into … Read more
Like a good playlist, Mfpen’s latest collection evokes emotions that exist almost outside of time. Though there are hesitant dabs of light blue and pale yellow, the clothes are mostly rendered in a palette of moody grays and blacks that hardly scream “spring.” Ditto for materials like pinstripe (these are tropical weight). Because Mfpen uses … Read more
A visit to Giambattista Valli’s airy, bright, and very elegant showroom, just near the Opéra Garnier, is never just about fashion, even if there is a mind-boggling array of covetable clothing, shoes, and bags. It’s about stepping into a lifestyle. The way the designer sees it, making clothes is about sharing a very specific dream … Read more
Serenity and excitement coexist in By Malene Birger’s resort collection. Somehow Maja Dixdotter found a way to maintain a sense of equilibrium while enlivening things with shots of ruby red and running wild with toned down animal patterns. A leopard-printed pony hair coat and hero piece has roar factor, but the other looks mostly purr. … Read more
Some 20-odd years ago, Roland Mouret founded his label on the idea of intimacy, what women really wanted, and how he could make it for them, which often involved cutting, draping, and folding his clothes directly onto the body. That’s still, all this time later, what drives his work. Maybe even more so these days, … Read more
Max Schiller’s current mood is reductionist and “locavore.” It’s present in the raw denim uniforms he created for Carsten Höller’s Brutalisten restaurant in Stockholm (which operates according to a manifesto that just one ingredient is used per dish), and in a more nuanced way in the spring Eytys collection. Tired of the pervasive influence of … Read more
Max Schiller’s current mood is reductionist and “locavore.” It’s present in the raw denim uniforms he created for Carsten Höller’s Brutalisten restaurant in Stockholm (which operates according to a manifesto that just one ingredient is used per dish), and in a more nuanced way in the spring Eytys collection. Tired of the pervasive influence of … Read more
With its classic palette (black, white, red, and beige) and the honesty of the fabrics (cotton, wool, denim, leather, and suede) it serves up a very current mix of creativity, functionality, and relevancy. Oh, and let’s throw in desirability here too, because he has also delivered that in spades. “I really need to work [the … Read more
