There’s a heat wave sweeping Los Angeles right now, but that was not the inspiration for Rodarte’s spring collection—despite the presence of a big, bold sun in their lookbook images. “It’s an ode to California golden hour,” said Laura Mulleavy on a phone call. “Yes, it was all pretty organic; all the wildlife and the … Read more
For spring 2025 Lafayette148’s Emily Smith took us inside an artist’s studio. “Spring is synonymous with new beginnings and drawing is sort of the birth of every creative thing,” she explained at the presentation held in a Manhattan loft. The Lafayette148 team had zeroed in specifically on the act of figure drawing with charcoal; the … Read more
You might call her Kim Gordon, but Henry Zankov would likely prefer goddess. (So would I, tbh.) Zankov went to see Gordon’s band Sonic Youth this past summer—green with envy here, I cannot lie—and he was transported back to the 1990s and to an era of alternative and grunge rock that has remained profoundly evocative … Read more
While shooting his new spring lookbook in California, Stan’s Tristan Detwiler and his team came across a washed-up whale on the beach; coincidentally, the ominous sighting mimicked the prints of dead fish that he used throughout his collection, from leather chore jackets to patchwork hitachi-knit sweaters. “The idea was to use deadstock over killing fish … Read more
In The Devil Wears Prada, Meryl Streep’s Miranda Priestly famously rolls her eyes at the constant presence of flowers in spring collections. “Florals, for spring? Groundbreaking,” she tells her editors. With all due respect to Mrs. Priestley, in the case of Adeam, it did feel like an exciting feat. This season, the New York and … Read more
The color palette was stripped back—white, tan, brown, black, a deep green, with little pops of orange, butter yellow, sky blue. The clothes indeed seemed complicated at first glance, and then there was that moment of recognition—“Oh it’s just a shirt with a loop hanging from it; oh it’s just a skirt with a circular … Read more
For official purposes, the Batsheva spring 2025 show took place at her store on Elizabeth Street. But in real life, Batsheva Hay and her cohort of models and co-conspirators took over Elizabeth Street entirely. They waited for a red light, blocked the crosswalk, and then out came a violinist, performing Shania Twain’s “You’re Still the … Read more
Glancing around at the Khaite crowd, guys were few and far between. Sure, there were men in attendance, but more than other shows at New York Fashion Week, this one from Catherine Holstein attracted mostly women. I think that’s because as a designer Holstein is defining how affluent style-conscious types want to look now: polished, … Read more
The cathedral window is WDW’s signature motif; making it dimensional was this season’s challenge. This treatment was used in men’s tailoring. Those arches, placed on the hips of a gray leather dress, looked a bit like panniers. Imagining what WDW could look like on the red carpet was one of the challenges the designers set … Read more
Looking at a collection by Svitlana Bevza is like that first breath of fresh air the morning after a rainstorm, a fitting reference for this season’s offering titled “Dew in the Sun.” And while Bevza was most certainly thinking about dew, she was also thinking about her home country of Ukraine. “The dew drops in … Read more
