For A.L.C.’s spring 2025 collection, Andrea Lieberman sought to tap directly into the vein of West Coast cool. “We really let the California environment inspire us both in lightness and airiness and natural fabrics,” she said. The designer more than achieved the lowkey, just-shy-of-polished brief with pieces like a paperweight crinkle suit and a raffia … Read more
At Diotima’s spring presentation, the room was set with bunches of lit red candles on top of sand and concrete blocks like so many little altars. The models came out and circled the tableau, round and around like an incantation. It’s not that anyone needs the help of the supernatural to fall in love with … Read more
Looking at the images of Lii’s spring 2025 collection, you might be surprised to learn the inspiration was Michael Haneke movies. “The characters are in a very formal or very intense space, but then somehow there’s a breakthrough or a break point that basically becomes the plot of the movie,” designer Zane Li said in … Read more
Stella Ishii uses a paper calendar to keep track of the date. Each morning she rips off the day’s page, puts it aside, and goes about her day. Nothing particularly extraordinary, except that she keeps every single page, and has done for years. This same diaristic approach is one that her and her 6397 co-conspirators, … Read more
You’ve just gotten home from the club. On the way to your apartment, you stopped by the corner deli and picked up a sandwich—if you’re one of the lucky ones who lives by a deli that’s open that late. Let’s say it was a classic New York chopped cheese. So you sit on the couch … Read more
The internet may have declared the ribbon to be out, but according to designer Reem Acra, there’s nothing more classic. Acra, after all, is a timeless designer: while trends come and go, there will always be a market for classic evening wear in beautiful colors, adorned with sequins galore. But even though Acra prefers the … Read more
Tory Burch transformed the atrium of the Domino Sugar Factory—Skylight at the Refinery is its official new name—into a pool, with walls and floor in aqua tiles. We were a dozen stories in the air and underwater at the same time, which is fitting because backstage Burch was talking about opposites: “power and grace, precision … Read more
It’s been a minute since Edvin Thompson staged a show in the city, so it was a shame that his buzzy return to New York Fashion Week today was clouded by a seriously late start time. If only one could say it took a minute—more like 76. The show started just over an hour and … Read more
Marina Moscone was after “something softer” for spring. “Probably motherhood helps with that,” added the designer as her parents tended to her adorable infant son. Soft and light as a breath of air were sheer overdresses with charmingly scalloped lettuce edges, the result of their bias construction. These over sheaths were simple, chic, and sort … Read more
Rentrayage’s Erin Beatty is experiencing a bit of a professional existential crisis. “I’ve found that my interest in fashion… doesn’t exist,” she said on a Zoom from her home in Connecticut. “The idea of fashion in this time and in this moment feels so self-aggrandizing, and I’ve really had to sit with it because that’s … Read more
