Sportmax’s design studio went for a “more with less” approach for pre-fall, drawing upon references to the Mod culture of the 1960s, the Belle de Jour bourgeois look, and the sleek modernism of the ubiquitous ’90s. Silhouettes were kept clean and fitted, aligned with the current trend of less oversized proportions; sportswear influences were also … Read more
Luchino Magliano’s inaugural show was held at Pitti Uomo five years ago. Models walked around a heap of red roses, a sort of totem signaling the potent romanticism that still imbues the designer’s ethos and aesthetic. Today’s show in Florence marked a homecoming for the designer; it was staged in the vast Nelson Mandela Forum, … Read more
In recent years, Eudon Choi has taken to approaching his pre-fall and resort collections as palate cleansers. His inclination has been to present what is (at least at first glance) a more stripped-back offering of his chameleonic wardrobe staples: layered knits, coats with detachable panels and sleeves, or trousers with inventive fastenings and belts, as … Read more
Elie Saab is in a 1970s state of mind. Like the styles of that time, his pre-fall collection covers a lot of territory. But he had one muse in mind overall: the inimitable Vogue editor Diana Vreeland. In her spirit, he titled the collection Perfectly Marvelous. The designer also took other of her admonishments to … Read more
Designers are as curious and cautious about AI as the rest of us. The new technology has been used at basic levels to create prints and to write at least one press release (Stine Goya). Last season Collina Strada and Heliot Emil dove deeper, experimenting with the tech as a design partner. Now Nehera’s Ladislav … Read more
For spring, Natasha Zinko transformed Soho Square, a de facto public park in the heart of central London, into a campsite adorned with tents of innumerable sizes. The Ukrainian designer’s pre-fall collection likewise has an outdoorsy theme, but with a cold-weather approach. “It’s a continuation of what we’ve done before, but everything’s a little bit … Read more
Like many designers this season, Naeem Khan was drawn to the idea of stripping things back and toying with minimalism. “I needed a palate cleanser—like a sorbet after an amazing appetizer,” says the Indian-American designer. But simplicity looks a little different for someone who’s known for his extravagant eveningwear and heavy embroidery work. Instead of … Read more
With his pre-fall collection, Zuhair Murad tuned into the music of the night. Picking up where his couture collection left off, the designer leaned into the concept of fly-by-night butterflies, lavishing saturated color and goth-tinged mystery on gossamer shapes for creatures that tend to rouse once the stars are out. One of the season’s new … Read more
It was 2020 the last time Georgina Chapman showed her Marchesa collection to the press. “We got comfortable during Covid,” she laughed, explaining the brand’s absence from the fashion cycle. Chapman wasn’t idle, however. She’s recently added Marchesa Rosa, a daywear collection with a bohemian spirit to her portfolio; it’s been designed to complement the … Read more
Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient are stepping into the new year, and their pre-fall season, with a resolution or two. “We’ve been creative and experimental for a long time, but with this collection what we wanted to achieve is like giving that big hug we all need right now,” Bösch offered during a joint video … Read more
