Three seasons at London incubator Fashion East put Johanna Parv on the map, and spring marked her first solo turn, supported by NewGen. The Estonia-born designer makes clothes with a defined purpose—her customer wears them for work, play, and commutes in between—which models demonstrated as they unfurled jackets and stashed them into clever pockets on … Read more
After some soul searching in transition limbo, Blumarine has appointed a new creative director. Georgian-born designer David Koma will showcase his first collection for pre-fall; spring was crafted by the in-house team. Inspired by the fluidity of water and by Nick Knight’s dreamlike blurred images of rose blooms, the collection read as a more streamlined … Read more
Since graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2022, Charlie Constantinou has built a cultish reputation as a purveyor of gleefully expressive gorpcore.“My work is very much based around adaptability and how you can transition between different environments,” he said after today’s show, “but when you look at a lot of technical wear and outwear brands, … Read more
After some soul searching in transition limbo, Blumarine has appointed a new creative director. Georgian-born designer David Koma will showcase his first collection for pre-fall; spring was crafted by the in-house team. Inspired by the fluidity of water and by Nick Knight’s dreamlike blurred images of rose blooms, the collection read as a more streamlined … Read more
Takuya Isagawa is a traditional fashion soul with a contemporary sense of humor. The Mister It. designer is enamored with the fashion world as it existed in white-gloved ateliers of eras past (he cut his teeth on the design team at Margiela, where he worked on the main line and artisanal collections), and his Tokyo-based … Read more
Then it was game time. All of a sudden we’re lined up. I’m number eight. That’s when it struck me that I was going to be walking out, when I saw the people filling up the venue. All of a sudden the place is packed and it strikes you that people really do this for a … Read more
Tanya Taylor’s spring collection was based around her idea of a perfect day. For the designer and artist that would involve painting and cruising between her studio and an art supplies store on a skateboard. “When you’re in an art store, you feel like all your tools are around; you could create anything. And there’s … Read more
Every now and then, it feels as if “the industry”—that invisible hand we often blame things on when they don’t work, and seldom mention when they do—comes together to stand behind a new designer. There are profiles written and meetings taken, emails exchanged and front row chatter: “Have you heard of…?” “You have to go … Read more
Those who’ve spent much time on the British Isles this summer will know that it has been—perhaps unsurprisingly—a total washout. Among them is Feben, who took the constant rain as a point of departure for her namesake label’s latest collection, titled Reign. “It was a play on words,” the designer explained backstage post-show, acknowledging the … Read more
For spring, Rosetta Getty was thinking pragmatically about the things she loves to wear and the way she loves to wear them, and as such, her collection was injected with a real sense of ease. She brought back a favorite caftan from last summer, in a beautiful striped brown fabric and with matching pants so … Read more
