“I read some critics in September who said: ‘Oh, he just did a commercial collection for the brand: blah blah blah.’ This is bullshit.” Sabato De Sarno pulled no punches in a preview, and—while riled by last season’s snipings—he declined to let that rhetorical turbulence affect the course of his menswear debut at Gucci this … Read more
For fall 2024, Emily Adams Bode Aujla is introducing a new line with a sportswear bend called Bode Recreation. “It’s our interpretation of American athletic wear, largely inspired from the 1770s through the 1970s, and it’s the first time that we’re introducing certain materials more focused on washability and wearability,” she said at the label’s … Read more
Dean and Dan Caten’s show was about—surprise!—the idea of twins. Who better than the irrepressible Canadian brothers should have a say in the representation of “the two sides of the coin,” as they said backstage? Drawing upon their own reality of being a sort of day-and-night double version of each other offered the Catens the … Read more
Lutz Huelle only ever met the late Alber Elbaz fleetingly—notably at the fashion dinner hosted by President Emmanuel Macron—but the two had more in common than meets the eye. Both were lured to Paris by a dream of working in fashion, and each forged his own signature in an adopted hometown, in a language not … Read more
If success is measured by the size of a brand’s booth at Pitti Uomo’s Padiglione Centrale, then Brunello Cucinelli ranks pretty high. Vast as a ballroom, always crowded to capacity, populated by the designer’s posse of collaborators-turned-models, it’s presided over by the entrepreneur himself, entirely at ease among a constant coming-and-going of clients and friends. … Read more
New year, new Blu: Blumarine pre-fall marks the beginning of the post-Nicola Brognano era. In the revolving doors game of creative directors, where tenures are increasingly getting shorter, he’s been replaced by Walter Chiapponi, formerly at Tod’s. Although this is a transitional collection put together by the design studio, it hints at what’s to come … Read more
Alessandro Dell’Acqua has the art of harmonizing polarities down to a T. His pre-fall collection read as an exercise in idiosyncratic styling, playing on apparently irreconcilable elements to gently break the rules of symmetry. “I don’t like going for predictable standards,” he said at a showroom appointment. Without courting subversion, Dell’Acqua has a way of … Read more
Menswear has taken a gentle route to move forward, as the codes of masculine representation overlap with those ascribed to the feminine identity. Gentle was precisely how Alessandro Dell’Acqua defined the attitude of his men’s fall collection, where contrasts coexisted, played out with “quiet conviction.” Blurring binary references is increasingly becoming unavoidable practice for fashion … Read more
Editor’s Note: We’re kickstarting the fall 2024 menswear season by adding two Miu Miu ready-to-wear collections—spring and fall 1999—to the Vogue Runway archive. These were the first two shows featuring Miu Miu menswear, a line that was active for a decade (1998-2008), and around which a nostalgic cult has developed. It’s impossible to relive the … Read more
Editor’s Note: We’re kickstarting the fall 2024 menswear season by adding two Miu Miu ready-to-wear collections—spring and fall 1999—to the Vogue Runway archive. These were the first two shows featuring Miu Miu menswear, a line that was active for a decade (1998-2008), and around which a nostalgic cult has developed. It’s impossible to relive the … Read more
