56 years after launching his very first collection (of ties, under the name Polo), Ralph Lauren is still very much in the saddle. According to the Lauren staffer on hand at this Milan presentation for Purple Label, the designer begins every episode of this collection by considering fabrics, just as you would when commissioning a … Read more
he fashion ley lines run deep and strong beneath Zona Tortona in Milan. Jerry Lorenzo held the first Fear of God presentation that I can ever remember happening during a Fashion Week this evening, in the rented Superstudio space in that neighborhood, where he said: “about 80 percent of this collection is done. And about … Read more
Cooking is a new-ish passion for Our Legacy’s Christopher Nying, who grew up in a home where food was an expression of love. He spread the amore this season by taking over a restaurant in Milan and preparing a meal for a gathering of friends and colleagues. His fall collection, called Feast, was similarly hospitable. … Read more
Cooking is a new-ish passion for Our Legacy’s Christopher Nying, who grew up in a home where food was an expression of love. He spread the amore this season by taking over a restaurant in Milan and preparing a meal for a gathering of friends and colleagues. His fall collection, called Feast, was similarly hospitable. … Read more
Ever since its foundation in 1872 by Eugenio Torelli Viollier—who would go on to launch Corriere della Sera a few years later—the Circolo Filologico Milanese has been dedicated to unravelling the most acute and nuanced cadences of language. This morning Norbert Stumpfl brought his Brioni, which is similarly committed to the minutiae of cultured menswear, … Read more
This epic Emporio Armani voyage was framed by the backdrop of a black lighthouse, and opened and closed with Loredana Berte’s 1983 classic “Il Mare D’inverno (Winter Sea)” on the Teatro sound system. The song is a raspily moody power ballad that includes the (translated) line: “I dive, perplexed, into moments I have already experienced.” … Read more
“High tailoring” is the phrase that describes the pre-fall 2024 Ermanno Scervino collection. Among contrasting shapes, tridimensional surfaces, and neutral, classical evergreen tones, the brand, founded in Florence in 2000, is known for classy and, at the same time, easy-to-wear proposals. Still, being easily wearable doesn’t mean Scervino’s garments lack attention to detail: instead they … Read more
Neil Barrett’s elevator pitch for this collection was The Duke of Devonshire meets The Thin White Duke. He said: “It’s about a character who is modern and completely engaged in the contemporary yet who also has an understanding and respect for what came before: heritage and tradition.” The result was a collection of clothing that, … Read more
Which way will the fashion winds blow when the fall 2024 collections begin in February? If Catherine Holstein’s latest Khaite collection can offer any clues, the 1980s may knock the ’90s and Y2K out of the trend cycle. The shoulder pads on the black leather motorcycle jacket that opens the look book call to mind … Read more
Dean and Dan Caten’s show was about—surprise!—the idea of twins. Who better than the irrepressible Canadian brothers should have a say in the representation of “the two sides of the coin,” as they said backstage? Drawing upon their own reality of being a sort of day-and-night double version of each other offered the Catens the … Read more
