In corporate culture (at least of yore) the first three months of employment is probationary. At Filippa K, Saint Laurent alum Liisa Kessler’s first three collections were the equivalent of corporate months, but the designer has clearly eased into her position and found her footing with her new collection for fall 2024, which feels confident … Read more
Thinking about legacy is second nature to Bryan Conway, who worked with Christopher Bailey at Burberry. Since joining Tiger of Sweden, Conway’s mission has been to define what a Swedish heritage brand is, and he’s been looking for answers—and materials—from the source. He’s been inspired by the architecture in Stockholm, photographed Swedish tourists in Mallorca … Read more
Daisuke Obana’s aim with N. Hoolywood’s Test Product Exchange Service collections is to adapt military-inspired garments “for town use.” Yet should you go to meet friends in the brand’s safety-yellow hooded topper, or a track suit-ish look with pockets and adjustable cord pulls, they might think you had dropped out of the sky or just … Read more
Thinking about legacy is second nature to Bryan Conway, who worked with Christopher Bailey at Burberry. Since joining Tiger of Sweden, Conway’s mission has been to define what a Swedish heritage brand is, and he’s been looking for answers—and materials—from the source. He’s been inspired by the architecture in Stockholm, photographed Swedish tourists in Mallorca … Read more
That the word “clothes” has become a buzzword, with designers emphasizing newfound commitments to making just really good clothes, is somewhat puzzling. Shouldn’t this have always been the point? Either way, at the Japanese label Auralee, “good clothes” have been a guiding principle from the start. Designer Ryota Iwai has built a devoted fan base … Read more
Black and white at Giambattista Valli? And no reference to the jet-setting lifestyle of his fabulous muses? What’s happened? Zooming from his studio in Paris while prepping for next week’s couture show, he conceded that he felt the pull of urban life and of being present in the here and now, explaining that he has … Read more
Carolina Castiglioni has a passion for contemporary art nurtured by her cultivated upbringing; her mother being Marni’s founder Consuelo Castiglioni, Carolina certainly has a trained eye. Her Milanese flat is filled with a carefully edited selection of best-in-class vintage furniture from the 1950 and ’60s, together with pieces from upcoming artists. No wonder her Plan … Read more
How do you trace the thread that connects Anthony Vaccarello’s superlative tailoring for Saint Laurent from last fall—all big shoulders and, well, even bigger shoulders—to the sublimely casual insouciance of his humble cotton shirting for this coming spring? That’s where this resort offering comes in, as much a celebration of the house codes—this time round: … Read more
There was no moodboard at Setchu’s fall preview. “I just started the collection from a white sheet of paper,” said designer Satoshi Kuwata. He crumpled a corner of the paper, leaving the rest intact. It was intended as a self-explanatory gesture: the margin joining the crinkles and the flat surface is the liminal, undefined, borderless … Read more
Tod’s presented its fall collection at its usual location, the modernist Villa Necchi Campiglio; it was designed by the in-house studio, as Matteo Tamburini, the new creative director replacing Walter Chiapponi, will stage his first women’s collection in February. The tableau-vivant setup had models sitting on iconic pieces of contemporary design, wrapped with ample swatches … Read more
