All of a sudden, Hed Mayner found himself putting his fall collection together in a time of war. “War was always something that your father and grandfather talked about,” he said during a showroom visit. “Now, for the first time, it’s my generation.” Mayner and his team persisted, focusing on a new tack for him: … Read more
This week, the 2023 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist Angelo Urrutia turned up in Paris with a few noteworthy ideas about honoring French couture, the idea of America, and authorship. “I love American things, from Coca Cola to rock and roll to sports jackets and yoga pants,” the designer said during a walk-through of his fall … Read more
A lot has changed for CDLM’s Chris Peters in the last year. For one, he’s joined the Puppets and Puppets team (the spring 2024 collection was the first one he worked on alongside Carly Mark), but even more importantly, he’s begun a meditation practice. “I never really understood what meditation did, but it’s given me … Read more
Eytys’s spring 2023 Eurotrash T-shirt got a lot of mileage last year. A sort of wearable meme, it tapped into the same vein of kitschy, tabloid glamour that Balenciaga mined for its show in LA. For its fall 2024 collection, Max Schiller, Eytys’s millennial creative director, looked back to the late ’80s and early ’90s—fashion’s … Read more
Were it not for the irresistible lure of Lemaire, people attending today’s show might have opted to remain under the covers, such was the dreary, cold, wet weather this morning. As it happens, the collection duly accommodated both scenarios: soft underpinnings and pajamas for staying in that, through deft layering, do double duty as city … Read more
“When I see people wearing denim today it seems new again,” said Jonny Johansson over speakerphone from Sweden. Kept at home by family matters, he was checking in to the presentation in Paris, where Acne Studios was unveiling the results of the creatively fired founder’s return to a genre he calls “rebellious denim.” The fabric … Read more
Berluti’s attractive Sky Running trail-style sneaker—with specially produced Vibram sole, amplified stitched leather mudguards, and mixed suede leather and mesh uppers, all in multiple tonal colorways—was just one shoe amongst many at this Berluti presentation. However it was the only all-new sneaker. And with the house soonish due to outfit the 800 plus French athletes … Read more
For the record, Who Decides War is making a return to Paris with its fall 2024 menswear collection, not a debut. Ev Bravado and Téla D’Amore’s history in the City of Light is related to their friendship with Heron Preston and Virgil Abloh and dates back to 2018 when WDW did rhinestone workshops with Preston—predating … Read more
“I think our universe has been very floaty, and somehow I feel like this collection is grounding it but still in an elevated way.” So said Cecilie Bahnsen on a call about her pre-fall 2024 collection. It’s been four seasons since the Danish designer started expanding her offering in a distinctive way that makes sense … Read more
Fumito Ganryu was explaining elements of his two collections—the mainline and his newer Red offering – by video call from Tokyo, while the pieces filled a number of racks in a Paris showroom. Red comprises an extroverted palette—from its titular fire engine hue to pylon orange, deep burgundy, and frosty shades of blue—whereas the main … Read more
