Hideaki Shikama has been in an introspective mood. “I’ve been reconsidering Children of the Discordance and also rethinking myself,” said the designer during a preview of this fall 2024 lineup. More specifically, Shikama has been ruminating on how he can continue to use his label as a vehicle to pursue originality and how he can … Read more
If you are in the middle of a pre-collection appointment and you suddenly find yourself talking about the Large Hadron Collider at CERN, then you can only be meeting with Coperni’s Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant. “As you know, we are very inspired by technology and innovation—it’s our passion,” Meyer said on a recent Zoom … Read more
David Koma’s fondness for birds and feathers has become ubiquitous in his designs. However, while still drawing inspiration from avian elements, his pre-fall collection deviated from his usual practice of dedicating his collection to a single muse. Instead, he chose to honor the high-society women of New York from the mid ’60s, whom Truman Capote … Read more
Dries Van Noten put together an essay on what he called “the elegance of the unexpected” for his fall men’s show. In many ways it read as another chapter of the “familiar-unfamiliar, unfamiliar-familiar” theme he talked about at his last women’s show. He started and ended with elongated, black tailored coats in silhouettes that made … Read more
Martine Rose convened another of her phenomenally heart-warming, powerfully directional shows in London on January 6. Roses were everywhere—grandparents, parents, sisters, brothers, cousins, and her children. Friends stood, whooped, danced, and cheered while the models—a cast of her favorite local heroes—proceeded to high-style it out. It was part Vogue ball, part riotous community fund-raising event—a … Read more
As fashion has embraced a pared-down, how does a label unabashedly partial to bold figurative imagery adjust? Francesca Ruffini’s attitude is one of smart flexibility, trying to navigate today’s change of mood without losing her distinctive style. “I’ve always tried to make my voice rise above the noise of trends,” she said. This season she … Read more
Spoiler alert: no speedos appear in Lazoschmidl’s fall 2024 collection. That’s not to say it’s not a seductive lineup, but it feels like a coming-of-age moment for the brand given the polish, attention to detail, and more “dressed” designs. Though there’s some irony in that, as Josef Lazo and Andreas Schmidl actually cycled back to … Read more
“I don’t really want to mention timelessness,” said 032c’s Maria Koch during a preview of her new collection. “This is too much to ask for when it comes to fashion.” The 032c ready-to-wear label debuted on the runway today in Paris. Having started as a line of merch for the magazine, subsequently developing into a … Read more
Yohji Yamamoto creates like a painter, an architect, a composer, a singer, a writer. He is a designer with an endless fascination for artists—the individualism, the impulses, and the archetypes. Tonight’s show progressed through movements, through scenes, through chapters, through stanzas. From the loosely knotted poets’ blouse and a coat with peaked shoulders, to the … Read more
Johanna Ortiz is gearing up for a major milestone of a year; she is celebrating her 20th anniversary in business. Perhaps that’s why her pre-fall collection had all the markings of a quintessential Johanna Ortiz collection: like a boldly printed caftan with alluring cabochon embroidery around the neckline, or a sequin stripe mini dress with … Read more
