“Well, it only took 10 years!” exclaimed Karl Lindman backstage at Toteme with his wife and cofounder Elin Kling by his side. Over the past decade, the brand has grown mightily in cachet, clientele, and commercial success without ever staging a proper fashion show. Lindman noted that they are perfectionists, hence one reason for holding … Read more
During a week of Parisian haute couture, it’s refreshing to find details that the layperson can recreate. While Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior collection of angelic feathers, liquidy pleated silks, and sheer pieces twinkling with hand embroidery required thousands of hours and an entire atelier, the beauty was intentionally attainable. “We decided to go for a … Read more
For almost a year, The Elder Statesman’s Greg Chait and Bailey Hunter had been discussing the idea of starting a surf label. “Surfing can be more than just surfing,” Chait said on a Zoom from the Paris showroom where they’re holding market appointments. “You can surf waves of many different things; it’s such a good … Read more
Substitute “he” or “they” for “she” in ZZ Top’s famous lyrics—“She got legs / She knows how to use them”—and you come directly to one of Stefano Pilati’s preoccupations for his fall 2024 Random Identities collection. Gams, pins, sticks…call them what you will, but they’re on show in the designer’s interpretation of formal, skin-baring Bermuda-ish … Read more
Rachel Antonoff has been thinking about butter. Butter as the ultimate condiment that makes everything better, as an easily attainable luxury and indulgence. There was a simple tank top with a crochet trim and the image of a salted butter bar on the chest, which was worn with a wrap skirt with a “floral” print … Read more
“Shocking and unexpected things happened while I was designing this collection,” Chitose Abe reflected (through a translator) after her men’s fall and women’s pre-fall collections had taken to the runway in Paris. “I feel grateful to have a simple, happy life, and so I really wanted to give a united message of love to everyone.” … Read more
This week, Reid Baker and Ines Amorim posted a clip to the Ernest W. Baker account that shows the full ambiance for this collection. It was shot in a ’70s-era bingo hall in their home base of Porto, all sleek and shiny and retro with gaudy splashes of chrome, neon, and gold. It was a … Read more
Marine Serre has been leavening her shows with menswear for a while now, and during the last three seasons has taken to showing her mainline during the men’s weeks in Paris. But what you see here, she said, is her first full and standalone menswear collection. “I’ve been building my masculine archetypes,” Serre said in … Read more
The disastrous flaw in this ERL collection was starkly obvious: you never let the surfer drive you to the prom. I won’t give away the full plot of this season’s Eli Russell Linnetz Don’t Look Now-influenced lookbook-meets-storyboard, but suffice it to say that the dude was 100 per cent baked. Linnetz sets up his collections … Read more
Is shouldn’t be surprising that Jun Takahashi is a Twin Peaks aficionado. There are any number of parallels between the designer’s embrace of strangeness and the unsettling series by David Lynch that has stood the test of time. With official authorization, this collection made use of title graphics, a series of stills from key moments—some … Read more
