Refined, classically inclined, quietly luxurious. Gabriela Hearst’s menswear is many things, but sexy is not necessarily one of them. That changes though with her fall 2024 offering. In the look book, there’s a sliver of midriff between a snug cable knit sweater and the low slung, slightly flared pants paired with it. The hip-huggers are … Read more
Late last year, Sachin and Babi Ahluwalia took their collection to the southwest to open Scottsdale Fashion Week. Just a few weeks prior, Babi had celebrated her birthday in Santa Fe. That this spring lookbook was photographed in the Arizona desert showcases just how impactful their time out west was for this east coast couple. “I … Read more
Backstage before his much-delayed spring couture outing, Gaurav Gupta offered a meditation on its spiritual inspirations, such as the Sanskrit word Aarohanam, or the mudra, a symbolic gesture that would soon emerge as a brassiere cast in bronze. “Ancient cultures were so much more progressive, they didn’t even have to talk to each other to … Read more
For his second outing on the Paris couture calendar, Robert Wun picked up more or less where he left off, expanding on ideas like last season’s blood-spattered gowns with new propositions culled primarily from his favorite films. It was also an exercise in gratitude, he said, as this year marks the 10th anniversary of his … Read more
The couture collections ended in Paris today in dramatic fashion with John Galliano’s presentation of the Margiela Artisanal collection. Underneath the Pont Alexandre III, Galliano’s gloomy vision unfolded with an immediately striking silhouette—a tinier than tiny waist cinched to the point of no return that emphasized luscious rounded and a plump backside. This homage to … Read more
Through Nicholas Daley’s distinctive lens, a print is never just a print. (Even if that eye-catching plaid or block pattern does serve its purpose as a print, drawing attention to a pair of trousers or a jacket.) Instead, for Daley, a print is a window into the world—or, more accurately, worlds—he’s exploring each season; a … Read more
With AZ Factory, Alber Elbaz wanted to become the little brand that could, offering young designers a top-flight atelier that would make their dreams come true. “He wanted to invite them to think about the ritual of couture in a way that speaks to their generation,” said Mauro Grimaldi, who oversees the brand’s development. “Our … Read more
If you placed Teurn Studios’s pre-fall collection on a Venn diagram it would represent the meeting of bougie polish and boyish (vs. tomboy) charm. Anna Teurnell, who lives not far from a school, has recently been taken by how “young guys look in Sweden, with their fly hairdos, jackets, slouchy trousers. They are so natural and … Read more
Hung La, the Vietnamese-American co-founder of Kwaidan Editions and the designer behind this bad-boy brand—its name means “dangerous man” in Vietnamese—brought his sixth collection to Paris this week, taking over a small gallery in the arty-scruffy upper reaches of the rue Saint Martin. An engineer by training, La earned his stripes working at Balenciaga in … Read more
Ranra designers Arnar Már Jónsson and Luke Stevens are well aware that on first sight their fall collection doesn’t look wildly different from the previous two; but they are confident that the clothes fit and feel better. The designers returned to being completely hands-on, which is maybe why the outdoor clothes they shot inside in … Read more
