Paolina Russo returned to Copenhagen Fashion Week for its sophomore show, after winning the inaugural Zalando Visionary Award last season. The London-based brand’s inclusion on the schedule is a reflection of the city’s growing global audience, along with its focus on sustainability. It makes sense then that design duo Paolina Russo and Lucile Guilmard are … Read more
In the wake of the contemplative transparencies and flower terrarium dresses that made the Undercover spring ’24 show so wistful and wondrous, this pre-collection delivered a surprisingly solid array of everyday attire. Granted, garments designed by Jun Takahashi are never ordinary, as evidenced by the cool jeans with flounced edges and blazers cut with a … Read more
The American artist Cy Twombly was born in Virginia, but moved to Rome before turning 30, making the Italian capital his primary residence. During this time, Twombly developed his distinctly modern style surrounded by classical works, finding inspiration in Greek myths and reinterpreting their original antique depictions with his own sensibility. “He was this American … Read more
Gianni Versace, Yohji Yamamoto. Dries Van Noten, Rei Kawakubo, Giorgio Armani. This Engineered Garments collection sees Daiki Suzuki pay homage to the designers who inspired the formative years of his career back in the ’80s, all in his signature magpie aesthetic. A collage of two tones of paisley shirting together in one style feels reminiscent … Read more
Wa, a catchall term for a traditional (and sometimes intangible) sense of ‘Japaneseness’, is something Rainmaker’s Kohichi Watanabe knowingly channels into his clothes. The 44-year-old designer did that and more this season, riffing on what he called the “common consciousness” of Eastern and Western art in the 1920s: Art Deco in American and Europe, and … Read more
“Aliens” just invaded Maison Margiela’s spring haute couture show. Walking down the runway on January 5, models appeared as other-worldly creatures with supernaturally lustrous skin that left the internet completely mesmerized. The genius that she is, makeup artist Pat McGrath was responsible for the enchanting effect: “It’s a modern take on porcelain glass skin,” her … Read more
In a pre-show chat, Alectra Rothschild of Masculina promised a “banger” of a cast. She delivered on that and then some. The whole show—which featured a live set by DJ g2g and high-jinks including imaginary cat-fights—was probably history making. It’s quite likely that Rothschild is the first openly trans woman to show at Copenhagen Fashion … Read more
Moschino today announced Buenos Aires-born Adrian Appiolaza as its new creative director. The highly-regarded Argentine, 51, is understood to have recently moved to Milan from Paris in order to finetune the first collection to be shown under his name later this month. Appiolaza’s appointment at Moschino makes him the successor of the Italian designer Davide … Read more
If you’re reading this, then you have seen the universally spellbound reaction to John Galliano’s Margiela Artisanal show this past week during the Paris Couture. You know that on the night of the Wolf Moon, Galliano staged his collection underneath Pont Alexandre III, conjuring a debauched Parisian nightlife scene from a bygone era. You are … Read more
We’ve spent the last decade in the era of the “boy brow.” Untouched, feathered, free: Our foremothers were traumatized from over-tweezing of the ‘90s, and in return encouraged us all to let our brows just be. But if this week’s cache of couture beauty looks is a crystal ball, we are entering a new era. … Read more
