There has been much talk in fashion recently about designers doing away with lofty abstract concepts and putting more focus directly on the clothes, but Stein’s Kiichiro Asakawa is the real deal. Ask the self-taught designer a hackneyed question about his inspiration, and he’ll hit back with a near-mathematical description of how each individual garment … Read more
Soulland, which pulled back from shows a few seasons ago, presented a fairly formulaic fall collection by appointment. Silhouettes stayed mostly static, while textiles (note the neon tapestry floral) and prints changed. There’s a wonderful “logo” print made from a pencil drawing by Silas Adler’s son, where the S in the brand name is turned … Read more
A connection to nature and the ability to find beauty in the quotidian is part of the Scandinavian ethos. In a voiceover on the soundtrack of her show, Emilie Helmstedt urged the audience to find treasure in the everyday. She certainly does that through her fashions, which depict organic forms such as clouds, mushrooms, and … Read more
“Nobody calls me ‘daddy,’” Philipp Plein reflected: “Except for Rocket.” Plein’s perfectly behaved toddler sat on his father’s lap during this call, munching on crudités and watching Peppa Pig—and Daddy Pig—on his papa’s phone. Meanwhile, Plein talked through a collection that went back to his mid-aughts roots. The tattoo patterns on menswear and womenswear referred … Read more
Having dived deep into the sea to emerge in pearls for spring 2024, Caroline Engelgaar and her team at Mark Kenly Domino Tan took to the skies this season. Oh, to fly away! It’s the ultimate escapist fantasy. “You’re allowed to dream,” for the eight minute duration of a show, “even though the world is … Read more
Umit Benan presented his luxurious B+ line right after Milan Fashion Week. His aim with B+ is to offer impeccable quality and made-to-measure service. Benan is deeply fascinated by Italian and Japanese fashion of the 1980s—he mentioned names such as Armani, Ferré, Miyake, and Yamamoto during a showroom visit—and that’s why his silhouettes are soft … Read more
H&M Studio’s proposition for spring 2024 is desk-to-desert, rather than desk-to-dinner dressing. Options for the latter do exist within the collection, but overall the idea is getting away from it all. “The dreaming of traveling… is really something that can free your mind; it’s liberating in that sense,” said Ann-Sofie Johansson, the company’s creative advisor. … Read more
Baum und Pferdgarten is celebrating its 25th anniversary this season. When Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave started their label back in 1999 (referenced by the “Since 99” jumper in the new collection), there were only a handful of brands in Copenhagen. Of course, this was a pre-street style, pre-social media era—a time when brands could … Read more
In the wake of the contemplative transparencies and flower terrarium dresses that made the Undercover spring ’24 show so wistful and wondrous, this pre-collection delivered a surprisingly solid array of everyday attire. Granted, garments designed by Jun Takahashi are never ordinary, as evidenced by the cool jeans with flounced edges and blazers cut with a … Read more
The size and energy of the crowd at Henrik Vibskov’s show was like that at a concert. He’s the OG of the Copenhagen scene, a man who has always gone his own way, and who regularly applies his creative mind to projects outside of fashion. At the end of last year the new King and … Read more
